My Dr. Seuss socks are done and I love them to bits.For those of you planning to make your own pair, I cast on 88 stitches on 2.5mm needles. After 20 rows of 2×2 rib, I switched to a 6×2 rib for the sock. This is my usual sock formula – the ribbing means that they stay up. After about five inches, I began to eliminate two ribs – you can see how one diminishes in a V – one on each side of a central 3 ribs that go at the centre back.

To eliminate the selected ribs, I needed to make 6 knit stitches and two purl stitches go away for each one. To do that, I K2tog on the second row of every stripe until the rib was done to one stitch. Then I P2tog once on either side of that shrinking rib (still decreasing on the second row of the next two stripes), then one last K2tog to make the last stitch disappear. I was back to my usual 72 stitch sock.

After that, I carried on until it was a bit too long, turned the heel and finished as usual. The only tricky bit was making sure those three centre back ribs were centred over the heel flap. And voilà!

I would wear them with a fox.
I would wear them in a box.

The strange thing is that I used two 100g balls of colour 150 Noro Kureyon Sock yarn. And putting the remnants on the scale, shows that there’s about 100g left over — even though I made knee socks. This must be because of the Briggs & Little Durasport on the feet and toes – it’s a colour called Blue Jean and is the (surprise) blue stripe there. It wears much better than the Noro. My Noro socks have worn out right at the bottom of the heel and under the ball of the foot – maybe I walk harder there, but these have Durasport there instead.
But theoretically, there’s enough yarn for another pair. Hmm.

I would wear them with a mouse.
I would wear them in a house.

They’re not quite identical, as I eyeballed the breaks instead of measuring them. Since each colour repeat is long, I got some closer than others. I think it’s a good compromise between perfectly matching and not matching at all.

What do you think?