Hankie Chic Caracas Dress for 12″ dolls

Caracas pattern for 12" dolls by Hankie Chic

I made some holiday dresses for the girls, using this pattern by Sylvia Bittner at Hankie Chic. The pattern is called Caracas, and you can buy the downloadable PDF from her online store right here.

This dress has an interesting wrap around the shoulders. It’s attached to a bodice flap overlapping the front body of the dress. The skirt has a big pleat in the front, then there are three bead buttons at the side of the bodice.

I found this pattern an easy make, so long as I didn’t think about it too much. I referred to the pictures of the final dress for that front pleat, because I would have sewn it down wrong otherwise. Similarly, I wrapped that shoulder bit a couple of times before I was convinced that I had it right. It folds back on itself (kind of) which confused me at first.

Here’s the first one I made, modelled by Continental Holilday Silkstone B.

Caracas pattern for 12" dolls by Hankie Chic made in red silk by Deborah Cooke

The three little “buttons” are gold beads, although they’re hard to see from this angle. I also bought the girls some Kaiser stands, which are pretty awesome. They almost disappear and are much more stable than the stands that come with the dolls.

I really like the base bodice design on this dress – it has a center front vertical seam from the waist to the bust, then a crosswise dart on the bust – and may use it in other garments. It fits quite well.

Caracas pattern for 12" dolls by Hankie Chic made in red silk by Deborah Cooke - bodice detail

I did change the order of assembly, in my usual way. I really like to sew the skirt and the lining together at the hem while they’re still flat, then understitch the lining. I did that with the skirt, then the same with the bodice. My handsewn seams end up being the waist seam in the lining, then the back edges to finish up.

I am lucky to have a number of friends who sew and who give me scraps of their wonderful fabrics. The red dress is made from a silk taffeta given to me by Laura.

Caracas pattern for 12" dolls by Hankie Chic made in blue silk by Deborah Cooke
Caracas pattern for 12" dolls by Hankie Chic made in pink silk by Deborah Cooke

The blue and the pink are from silk remnants given to me by Helen. The girls like them all. 🙂

These models are Lingerie #6 in the blue and Lingerie #2 in the pink.

After the first doll was dressed, I realized that she reminded me of Ravishing in Rouge from 2001. I had a look and found one at the right price, so she’s joined the other girls here. She really is lovely.

2001 Ravishing in Rouge Silkstone Barbie
2001 Ravishing in Rouge Silkstone Barbie

I’ve still planned to make another Caracas, with the wrap in a contrasting fabric. For the moment, though, the girls have some party dresses for the festive season ahead.

More New Girls

When times are uncertain, people become more careful with their money. I can certainly see that in the book market, and it’s also evident in the doll resale market. My birthday money, earmarked for dolls, has gone a little further this year than expected – and I was able to add one of my grail girls to my collection.

First up, that doll. She’s Tonner’s Sydney Chase Mover & Shaker from 2003.

Sydney Chase Mover & Shaker 2003

She is just soooooo pretty.

At left is the official image of her. Even though it’s small, you can see that her lips are pale. IRL, this doll has red lipstick.

2003 Sydney Chase Mover & Shaker
2003 Sydney Chase Sheer Glamour

In one of the doll forums, a long-time collector explained that the make-up choices were transposed in production between two Sydney Chase dolls being made at the same time. Sheer Glamour (above right in her official image) was supposed to have the red lipstick: instead the actual doll has the paler make-up.

Here’s my girl. I love that red lipstick so much. It’s hard to imagine her with a paler choice.

Sydney Chase Mover & Shaker 2003

Some of these older dolls get marks on their bodies from the clothes, particularly if they have been left in their boxes for over 20 years. Mover & Shaker is one said to get those marks – thanks to the black suit – but I bought a NRFB one all the same. She does have some marks on her shoulders, so I’ll have to look into removing them when I change her clothes. For the moment, though, we’re both happy that she’s here, just the way she is.

2003 1 Modern Circle Barbie

I also finally identified a Barbie doll that I’ve seen in the past and liked a lot. It’s tough to hunt down a doll if you don’t know the name or serial number, but the universe moved for me and I found both her name and a NRFB doll at a good price. She’s 1 Modern Circle Barbie and that’s her official pic at right.

I just love the orange hue of her hair. It’s lovely and silky, too.

She’s from 2003 – clearly a year I should have been buying dolls! – and is almost the twin of Silkstone Lingerie #6, also from 2003. Here they are together.

1 Modern Circle Barbie & Silkstone Lingerie Barbie #6, both from 2003

This new girl has a different body sculpt than I’ve seen before. She’s articulated, but the pins in the elbows are visible with this sculpt. Also, her hands are very flat – but she can hold her phone, thanks to a knob on the back of the phone and a hole in her hand. The flip-phone is a lot like the one we used to have, and that makes me smile. Here she is unpacked:

1 Modern Circle Barbie from 2003

She has a laptop, too, but I’d put it inside the briefcase before taking this pic. It’s a great thick one, similar to a Compaq monster that the mister used to sling around before laptops got thinner, lighter and cheaper.

One thing about buying dolls is that there are little tips and tricks to be learned from their garments – for example, the “zipper” on her briefcase is a line of silver trim with a teeny tiny tab sewn at the end. Ha. I like that the older dolls don’t have velcro fastening on their clothes, but that turquoise top could use a third snap.

She came, strangely enough, with two left shoes instead of one left and one right. I have a lot of those black slingbacks – I bought a bag of 50 pair once upon a time – so I can make it right.

hip elastic in 1 Modern Circle Barbie

As is so often the case with Mattel dolls, I like the style of her clothes but am less fond of the fabrics they’re made from. I’m going to start on my plan of replicating the girls’ clothes in fabrics I do like, and reproducing this long coat will be my first project.

This girl also will be my first hip repair. Her legs are so loose that she can’t stand up, but there’s nothing fancy about the joint – it’s just a piece of 1/4″ black elastic holding her legs in place. It’s sewn into a loop at each end, which is looped around the eyelet in the hip. I can (and will) easily replace that. I won’t be able to sew both ends, but one knot should be fine.

Silkstone Barbie BFMC Collection #2

The third girl on her way who arrived last week is the second BFMC Silkstone from last year, the blonde. I thought she was too expensive at the time – actually, it was the conversion to $CAD that I didn’t find compelling – but Mattel put her on sale this past month for 30% off, so I indulged. They also released the third BFMC Silkstone but I chose this one instead.

I was quite impressed with this girl when I unpacked her – the dress is quite lovely and more full than expected. The pink underskirt is actually a separate ruffled slip, and the pink velvet stole is attached to the dress. Of course, I undressed her and took down her hair, which was crunchy with some fixative. (I’ll wash it out.) I still have to decide what to do about her necklace. It doesn’t have a clasp – I’ll have to open a link to take it off, then it probably won’t go back on easily. Hmm. I’ll have a rummage in my jewelry findings and see if I have a clasp that can be put to work.

I had originally thought that she would be very similar to Best in Black, the other blonde articulated Silkstone in my collection, but she has a much paler skin tone and her make-up is very different. She’s quite elegant and I’m glad I got her.

Now I have even more girls who need new clothes!

Natasha’s New Friend, Evangeline

Last fall, I ordered a doll from AliXpress who I ended up calling Natasha. She has (kind of) a Silkstone Barbie head sculpt and an articulated body similar to the Integrity Toys Fashion Royalty dolls.

FR-25 from the dolls available at AliExpress

Recently, I noticed there were new dolls there, so (yes) I ordered one. Here’s a landing page, although there are plenty of vendors selling these dolls. This is FR-25. She has her left hand raised in all the product pix.

The box is optional – I ordered it, to protect the doll in shipping, and it came dented but the doll was fine. There’s no stand with the doll. She was a little cheaper than Natasha, costing me just over $30 CAD including shipping etc.

Natasha came with a pair of black slingbacks, but not this girl.

And here she is, wearing the mauve silk suit I made for the girls last year – even though it doesn’t fit her very well – and catching some rays after her long flight. She’s so tall that the sleeves on all the items for B are short, and these girls are actually a little wider in the hip than either of the B sculpts that I sew for. That dress is a big snug.

FR-25 doll from AliExpress wearing a silk suit made by Deborah Cooke

She is staring off at the sky (watching contrails, maybe) because her head doesn’t tip down any further. I had to ease something so it *popped* to be able to bend her knees, which was a bit daunting but worked out fine in the end. Her feet are too big for most B shoes, but she fits FR shoes.

Her hair is nice, similar to Natasha’s, very soft but could be a little more thickly rooted. Her nails are shorter than Natasha’s, which is a good thing IMO, and her skintone is more lifelike. I think she’s a good value for the price.

Her face does remind me a little of Linda Evangelista, so I’ll call her Evangeline.

I’m going to have to make clothes for these two, since they can’t borrow from the other girls…

Aileen’s Petite Fashions – 82 Easter Parade

Aileen's Petite Fashions #82

You don’t have to buy many patterns for doll clothes to come across Aileen’s Petite Fashions. These patterns are hand-drawn and clearly vintage. The title is hand-printed and the instructions look as if they’ve been typed. There’s usually a drawing of the doll and garment. At right is part of the one I’ll show you today.

Something about them reminds me of “ditto” copies, which our teachers made in the 1960’s and 70’s. (Dittos were made on spirit duplicators and characteristically were purple copies. The machines were hand-cranked and had a specific sound, and the process produced a memorable scent.)

I don’t know the history of these patterns, but they seem to date from the early sixties. There are a number of APF patterns reproducing original Barbie outfits. I found a list of them, here, though the site is old and it’s not clear whether the patterns are still being sold from this site. I’ve mostly come by mine via Etsy purchases, though often the finished garment is shown in the picture and I don’t realize it’s an APF pattern until I’ve downloaded it.

I recently made my first APF pattern. It’s APF 82 – Easter Parade, a reproduction of a 1959 Barbie fashion from Mattel. It included a black unlined coat, a print sleeveless dress, a purse and a “hat” (which is kind of a hairband, made with a “garbage tie”. Hmm.) Here’s a description on the Barbie Wiki with a picture of the Mattel original. I got this pattern on Etsy somehow, probably in a bulk pattern purchase.

And here’s my first attempt.

Aileen's Petite Fashions #82 Easter Parade sewn by Deborah Cooke

I made the coat of black Kona cotton. The instructions, like those on many older patterns, seem to assume that you already know what you’re on about. I used ribbons for the bows on the pockets, because I had no idea how big to cut the bias strip to make them, and couldn’t see them well in the picture to mimic the original. The coat has no front fastening because it’s pretty full. I did finish more edges than instructed and it came out reasonably well. I think it would benefit from a lining as the back collar bit does not give me joy but there you go.

silk pillbox hat for Barbie made by Deborah Cooke

Vintage B is wearing it here with a sheath of emerald satin and a pillbox hat with two feathers. (I love this little hat!) I’ll show you the sheath in another post, once I work out some kinks in the pattern.

I also made the dress from the pattern, using a teeny-tiny cotton floral print that I bought on Etsy. This one seems very generous in bodice, particularly in the upper front. I think if I made it again, I might curve down the neckline that takes the bias band. Overall, the fit is generous, more suited to “little fingers” than sleek couture.

Aileen's Petite Fashions #82 Easter Parade sewn by Deborah Cooke

The black seemed a bit austere for an Easter coat, so I cut another of bright pink. This is a French shirting cotton with two shades of pink that gives it a pretty crosswise stripe. (I originally made myself a shirt of this fabric. What happened to that shirt???) I added 1/4″ to the length of the sleeves to allow for a doubled hem, and again used ribbon on the pockets. You can see that this kind of collar doesn’t fit under a coat very well.

Aileen's Petite Fashions #82 Easter Parade sewn by Deborah Cooke
Aileen's Petite Fashions #82 Easter Parade sewn by Deborah Cooke

And here’s an interesting detail. I recently bought Kenneth King’s book on sewing for dolls and was intrigued that he used bridal tulle as a lining on some garments. It’s very thin, as he notes. Well, Aileen was using bridal tulle sixty years ago – the top of the dress is lined with it. It does work out quite well, making a very thin lining. The skirt of the dress is unlined.

Tulle lining in dress from Aileen's Petite Fashions #82 sewn by Deborah Cooke

Simple Sundress

Simple Sundress pattern from Hankie Chic

I’ve admired this pattern from Hankie Chic for a while, and finally bought a copy. I also made it for the girls almost immediately, which is pretty amazing. Usually patterns have to wait their turn in the queue. Not only that, but I made a second one right away, in a fabric that had just joined my stash, so I’m making personal ‘firsts’ all over the place this month. 🙂

Here’s the pattern – it’s available from the designer’s website right here. There’s just the one view, although you can see that the designer did some fussy-cutting to have borders and bands in different places. I found this to be a very easy and quick make.

Here’s the first one, made of quilting cotton and lined with cotton voile. This is one of the new Barbie Basics dolls with a MTM Original body, and the dress fits her. It’s a bit looser on her than on the original Silkstone, but I positioned the snaps for the Silkie girls. I did some top-stitching on this one as the quilting cotton seemed more bulky than crisp.

Simple Sundress pattern from Hankie Chic made in quilting cotton by Deborah Cooke

One of the results of using quilting cotton for a pattern like this with a very full skirt is that the gathers at the waist add a tremendous amount of bulk. The fabric is gathered as much as it can be or close to it, and that adds a lot of fabric in the seam allowance. You can probably see a huge difference in the waist in the second version.

This one is made from a piece of silk taffeta that I got at our sewing guild’s fabric swap – yes, it was here for less than a week before some of it was sewn up. (I know. The world is wobbling on its axis.) It’s also lined with cotton voile. This one is so very crisp. 🙂

Simple Sundress pattern from Hankie Chic made in silk taffeta by Deborah Cooke

The skirt on this one is a little bit longer than the pattern specifies. Silkie has a new pair of shoes that coordinate perfectly. It pleased me that the gold vertical stripe lined up on the skirt and waistband, because I hadn’t planned that. Sometimes there are good surprises!

Part of the difference in the slimmer waist is the doll, of course – the Silkies are smaller in the waist than the new MTM dolls (and bigger in the bust), but still. There’s a lot less bulk in the seam allowance because the silk taffeta is much thinner than the quilting cotton. Using a thinner fabric – like the silk or a cotton voile, perhaps a Liberty Tana Lawn – diminishes the bulk of the seam allowances at the waist. I don’t think you can trim it much and am not sure it would matter as you’d still have some gathered skirt seam allowance. Another way to address this would be to cut a circle instead of a rectangle for the skirt, as there would be less gathering – there could even be no gathering at all, depending on the size of the inner (waist) circle. I think I may play with that a bit.

The only pattern modification I made for the second one was to move the gathers out a smidgen on the bodice. I thought the first bodice was a little ruffly at the centre front – that could be a bit of an illusion because the doll is flat there. It does make sense to have the gathers immediately under the bust. For the second, I left the first centimeter from the front edge on each front bodice piece flat, and gathered from there to the side seam. Again, the fabric was gathered about as much as it could be in that small space. Another solution would be to pleat or dart the front pieces to get the fit. There’s something else to play with.

One last observation – I’d forgotten how much silk taffeta wants to fray. I ended up sewing one centre back edge a second time – the seam allowance frayed away after I trimmed the seam, so I sewed it again, then zigzagged the seam allowance just to be sure. I dislike how products like FrayCheck make fabric feel, so the next time I cut this silk taffeta, I’ll finish all the edges before I start assembling the garment.

I’m really pleased with both. 🙂

New Girls

Two new girls moved in over the holidays and I finally remembered to show you them to you. The theory was that they would be the last additions for a while – but then the Barbie Basics 2025 happened. Oh, and Lacie Churchill, too. (!)

First up, a Silkstone Gift Set that I’ve admired for a while. This is A Model Life from 2003. That’s the gift set at the left, then the two promotional images from Mattel.

The doll comes with her lingerie, two pairs of shoes, a pantsuit with pink blouse and a coordinating black skirt, as well as a pair of pantihose and other accessories. I bought mine new in box (NRFB actually), so she’s precisely the way she originally shipped. That said, the materials used for these dolls don’t always age well. It’s pretty common to discover that hair elastics have crumbled to dust or that the tape has dried out. The skirt peeled a bit when I removed it from the box – it was taped in and the tape had dried to the pleather so that they bonded together forever. Also her hip joints are also a little looser than might be ideal, which is another thing that changes over time. Funny that I just saw a video demonstrating how to restring these dolls when that happens. (Who knew? Not me.) So, I don’t think I’ll buy more older dolls without being able to have a good look at them first.

On the other hand, this encourages me to try something I’ve been thinking about. When the last Silkstone girl arrived, I thought about replicating some of her clothes in better fabrics. The designs and the cut are usually interesting and a better fit than many of the patterns available for sale. So, the first job on that list will be replacing this little black skirt. It should be easily done. The “official” clothes from Mattel aren’t usually lined – this skirt isn’t – and tend to be serged together. I suspect my replacement skirt will be nicer. 🙂

Her hair looks like it’s full in the back in these photos, but actually, she has the (inevitable) ponytail and forehead curl. The elastic in her hair is holding but just barely. I’ll have a look at options one of these days when it needs replacing.

Poppy Parker It's My Party 2024
2024 Poppy Parker It’s My Party

The other new girl who arrived is my first Poppy Parker. Her story is that she’s a girl from the Midwest who moves to New York in the 1960’s to become a model, so all of PP’s wardrobe is 60’s-inspired. She’s made by Integrity Toys, and often has amazing accessories. This one is a little simpler in that regard. She’s called It’s My Party and is from 2024, also NRFB – at least until she arrived here. This is the fourth doll from the At Home collection, which celebrated Poppy’s 15th anniversary. At right is one of the promo images.

Here’s a blog post featuring all four of the dolls in that collection with lots of pictures.

Integrity Toys Jade Feelin' Extra - new
2019 Integrity Toys Jade Feelin’ Extra

I have one other doll from Integrity Toys, my Jade Feelin’ Extra, and expected some similarities between these two. Jade has beautifully made clothes – that baseball jacket is exquisite, embroidered, lined, and with a working zipper – and also fun accessories, like her purse and shoes. She has a second pair of hands in a different pose as well as jewellery.

Poppy is similar. She has the same body type, or very close to it, with a lot of articulation. She also has a second set of hands, painted to look like she’s wearing short gloves. I don’t love the joint at the ankle on the PP’s with interchangeable feet, so I’m glad that this one only has high-heeled feet.

I’ve also gotten some new storage for the girls and their gear, which tidies things up considerably and also has let me get a bit more organized. (Nowhere to go but up with that situation.) This is a shelving unit from Ikea called Kallax. We are changing out the knobs with an upgrade from Lee Valley. I love the seagrass baskets (also from Ikea) – they look great and smell wonderful.

Storage for Deborah Cooke's girls and sewing supplies

The mister is still installing the pair of doors at either end of the middle row, but the drawers are full of teensy supplies, all neatly sorted. Those are all my books for the girls at the top left and their shoes at the top right. The red binder has my knitting patterns for the girls. I’ve put their stands in one of the baskets which is a great solution. That box of patterns will go into another basket, then maybe projects-in-progress (now in a box off to the right) in another. The fourth will probably have fabric stash. It certainly is making things feel neater, even though it’s still in progress. The girls will stay in their carriers and their clothes will remain in wardrobes. I have to figure out what to do with the 16″ girls since they don’t fit in these cubbies and it’s hard to find boxes tall enough for them. One step at a time!

Revisiting McCalls 7550

McCalls 7550

The first sewing pattern I used for the 11.5″ girls was this one, McCalls 7550. That experience taught me to look at the dolls modelling the garments in the picture, because nothing I made from this pattern fit my vintage Barbies. I made the sundress (shown in a blue floral) in navy and again in pink, and it just barely fit the Silkstone girls. The pattern is drafted for dolls that are less curvy than vintage B.

Here’s my post about those dresses.

Now, of course, my newest girls have a different body sculpt than vintage B. original Silkstone or articulated Silkstone. The Made-to-Move Original body is smaller in the bust and hips, and generally less curvy. I have the Looks 20 redhead, and the blonde from the new Basic Black series has the same body sculpt. I was wondering what patterns to use for them – the garments that fit the Silkies are a bit big in the bust for the MTM Original body – and remembered this pattern.

Aha! It works brilliantly.

Let’s have a look. I made sundresses again – that view has a halter top – but left out the crinolines. Here’s one of them in a cotton print (with cotton voile lining) on Barbie Basics #2: (Hmm. Now I see the red thread on the front of her skirt. Oops!)

McCalls 7550 view B on Barbie Basics #2 sewn by Deborah Cooke

I’ve always thought these hats were funny – they’re made of two circles of fabric with a wedge cut out, like a piece of pie. The opening is then seamed, like a dart, and the two sides sewn together and turned. It looks like a plate to me BUT it’s hard to make hats for the girls. In the first place, they’re fiddly, and in the second, they often are too small to sit well on their heads. When they’re made big enough, they look disproportionate. I love hats and this frustrates me. I tried the disc hat on a whim, and it actually looks pretty good. Who would have guessed?

The shoes make me laugh. They were included in a mixy-mixy bundle of shoes for B. They should have red soles because they look like Christian LouBoutin’s Daffodile pumps embellished with Swarovski crystals. (Nothing but the best for the girls!) I’m trying to figure out a way to neatly paint the soles red and make them sparkle. Too bad I only have a white pair.

I also made the jacket and pants (shown in pink on the pattern envelope) with the top but without the scarf. I used pleather for the pants and these are snug even on MTM Original. It might be the fabric.

McCalls 7550 view E on Barbie Looks #20 sewn by Deborah Cooke

They look great, though, and the length is perfect. I made the top but didn’t like it particularly. It’s a little loose in the bust on this girl but just a relaxed fit. I changed the neckline to a V instead of the round neck so now that top looks a bit like scrubs to me. That may be the issue for me.

Instead of the top, I knit a top from Sticka-til-Barbie, #263, in black Malabrigo Sock. Here’s the Ravelry link for that pattern. Like so many of these patterns, it’s a quick and clever knit. I made the decreases mirror each other, but otherwise just knit as written. This one is a little confusing – it’s knit in the round to the bottom of the front slit, then you need to work past the CB to the othet CF with each row.

The jacket is also quilting cotton, also lined in cotton voile.

I tried both on an articulated Silkstone and an original Silkstone.

McCalls 7550 view B on articulated Silkstone Barbie Best in Black sewn by Deborah Cooke

This is a little loose in the waist and fits perfectly in the bust on the articulated Silkstone. (She’s Best in Black, btw.) If I was sewing specifically for her, I would just move the waist snap 1/8″.

Here’s an original Silkstone in view E.

original Silkstone Barbie in view E McCalls 7550, sewn by Deborah Cooke

This is A Model Life. The pants are quite loose around the waist for her but fit okay through the hips. I think they could be a teensy bit longer. She refused to wear the red boots, btw. 🙂

She also wasn’t fond of the sweater, as if was quite loose for her, especially in the waist. She preferred this little short sleeved cotton top that I drafted up for the Barbie Basics 20. (She liked it, too, but it didn’t fit under the coat, which she loves.)

Sticka till Barbie top #263 knitted by Deborah Cooke in Malabrigo Sock and modelled by an original Silkstone Barbie (It's a Model Life)
Short-sleeved top drafted and sewn by Deborah Cooke, modelled by an original Silkstone Barbie (It's a Model Life)

So this pattern that I’d set aside in frustration is now a go-to for the newest girls. This pattern is still available new, in either print or downloadable PDF. Here’s the link to the product page at Simplicity patterns.

I’m now regretting that I chucked out the suit I made from this pattern. It’s shown in green on the envelope, a dress and jacket, and I made it of ivory silk. It was soooooo pretty but it didn’t fit any of my girls then. I guess I’ll just have to make it again – but now, I have a piece of green silk that will be just perfect.

Danielle Two-Piece Dress

Barbie Mode: Dresses for Classic Barbie Dolls by Kate Mitsubachi

It’s been a bit crazy around here lately. I apologize for the silence here on the blog. I have a number of posts queued up that need pictures. Today, I’ll make a start on finishing them up to be shared.

First up, I finally got back to Kate Mitsubachi’s books, Barbie Mode. Previously, I made the Double-Breasted Suit and the Soirée evening gown from Kate’s other pattern book, Stylebook for Dolls. I had an idea when I first got these that I’d make every garment for the girls, but life happened and I was distracted by other projects. In December, I dug back in.

Danielle dress from Barbie Mode

Both books are in Japanese, but the instructions have illustrations and are easy to follow. I have a print copies of the books, but you can buy scans of them on Etsy.

The third garment featured in Barbie Mode is a two-piece suit called Danielle, which is shown in red and black. At left is the picture from the book.

I made mine in a linen and cotton blend, because it looked to me as if the sleeves would hang better in a lighter weight of fabric. I lined mine with white voile, and it came out pretty well. I haven’t made the hat and am not sure I will.

Here’s mine:

Danielle two-piece suit pattern from Barbie Mode by Kate Mitsubachi, sewn in a linen blend by Deborah Cooke

I like the seed beads on the front of this one. I think the belt in the book is made of satin ribbon, but I made this one of belting that’s available for dolls. I thought the sleeves might be softer in such a fine fabric, but they’re still a bit structural.

One change I made was to add some top-stitching to the jacket. I find that princess seams on a jacket lie flatter in doll-size if they’re sewn down. I pressed the seam allowances away from the centre, and trimmed one to 1/8″ inch before pressing then top-stitched on the outside of the seam, catching the seam allowances underneath. It would have been tidier if I’d sewn a little more of the jacket hem before turning it and handstitching the rest, but overall I’m pleased with the result.

I’m ready for a break from pink, though.

McCalls 8544 Enchanted Evening

McCalls 8544

I showed you this new-ish sewing pattern from McCalls for the girls, McCalls 8544. It’s for three ensembles that are close copies of vintage official Barbie outfits.

I made the ballgown, which is similar to Enchanted Evening, this month. This dress reminded me why I hate sewing polyester satin, although it came out well enough.

I haven’t made the gloves yet, or dug out a pair from the wardrobe.

The pattern calls for that swishy addition to be lined as well as the bodice, but not the skirt. I modified that and lined the skirt, too, which made construction a bit more challenging than might have been ideal. (Bemberg rayon and polyester satin together. Yikes.) I like the result, though.

McCalls 8544 sewn for Barbie by Deborah Cooke
McCalls 8544 sewn for Barbie by Deborah Cooke

In terms of future mods, I think the front skirt is a little wide – that rose ends up a bit further back on the left hip than would be ideal. I’ll take a teensy bit out of the centre front next time. I also don’t love that folded piece at the top of the bodice, much less how it overlaps at the center back. It’s cut on the bias, but I think I’ll modify the piece so that it tapers toward the center back. I also want to trim the backs so that the main fabrics end at the CB and there’s a tab of lining to tuck under one front for the snaps. I think that makes a cleaner back.

It is a teensy bit long for vintage B, but the perfect length for the Silkies. I’ll have to take more out of the CF in both the skirt and the bodice to make one for the Silkie girls.

The fur stole isn’t supposed to have a brooch, but I found the perfect buttons. There’s a hook and eye holding it closed and it’s lined with the same pink satin.

The pink is lovely but I’m looking forward to making a couple of these in jewel tones for the girls. I saw one in red on a Silkie on Facebook and it was just gorgeous.

Enchanted Evening was a fashion offered for Barbie in 1961. Here is the reproduction, with doll, from 1996. You can see that in the promo shot of B on the stairs, the image has been reversed and the gathers are on the right instead of the left.

Barbie Enchanted Evening reproduction 1996
Barbie Enchanted Evening reproduction 1996

Margot Robbie also wore a version of this dress to the première of the Barbie movie in London. You’ll find lots of images of that online!

Simplicity 9913 – The Mondrian dress

I have been finishing up some projects this month, but haven’t been good about getting pictures taken. This week, we’ll catch up a bit.

Simplicity 9913

This pattern features designs from the 1960’s. It’s not currently available new, so I bought a digital download on Etsy. It’s Simplicity 9913.

I wanted to make the Mondrian dress, inspired by the Yves St. Laurent model on the right. Because I didn’t trust the download’s sizing, I made one in a solid color first. It actually came out reasonably well – the one difference is that I added a button band to the back closure to keep it tidy. I tried both hats but didn’t have much luck with either, maybe because my model’s hair is thick. They just perch on the top of her head, which looks silly.

Barbie Looks #20

My model today is a new girl here. She’s Barbie Looks #20 (that link will take you to the Mattel site) and was discounted on Cyber Monday. I’ve been wondering how the new articulated bodies differ in proportion from the other dolls in my collection so bought this one. The main difference in proportion is that her bust is smaller. She’s probably closest in size to the model muse body sculpt.

Her hair, btw, was not like this official picture. The ends were frizzy and it was very bulky – there was some product in it that made her ponytail as big around as my thumb. So, she had a boil wash and a trim. It’s still not like this picture, but is an improvement.

My idea was that she could be my sixties girl, instead of a Poppy Parker, so here she is in the test sew of the YSL shift. I made the dress in one color, with the purse. I used a 10″ square of orange quilting cotton (used it all up!) and lined the dress with cotton voile.

Test sew of YSL Mondrian dress, sewn by Deborah Cooke and modelled by Barbie Looks #20
Test sew of YSL Mondrian dress, sewn by Deborah Cooke and modelled by Barbie Looks #20

It’s a little bit loose for her in the front bust. It fits the vintage body sculpt perfectly through the bust.

She doesn’t seem inclined to be a sixties girl, maybe a contemporary girl who likes vintage fashion, as you can see from the Blundstone boots she’s chosen. She is very posable, which is fun, although I think her knees and elbows look odd.

Next up, the YSL dress with the color block. The black is done with a narrow ribbon topstitched to the dress, which is clever.

Wiki says there were six variants of the YSL Mondrian dress, though it’s tough to find pictures of them all online. Here are a couple of images from the September 1965 issue of Vogue, which featured the dresses. The one on the cover is the one you see most often.

cover of Vogue magazine September 1965
YSL Mondrian dresses in Vogue magazine, September 1965

This pattern is for the dress at the back in the right picture, probably because the front is symmetrical and that’s easier when you’re working small. There was a series of three Yves St. Laurent Barbie dolls released in 2018, including a Mondrian one wearing a replica of the front dress with the blue shoulder. You can see them all in this blog post at The Fashion Doll Chronicles.

I was also trying to find a picture of the back. The pattern has the back in pieces, making me think the middle panel on one side or the other must be in a color, too. I can’t find it, so I just decided to make one of them blue and put some yellow on one shoulder.

Here’s the finished dress:

YSL Mondrian dress for 12" dolls from Simplicity 9913, sewn by Deborah Cooke
YSL Mondrian dress for 12" dolls from Simplicity 9913, sewn by Deborah Cooke

I’m not much for clear yellows, so the only yellow fabric in my stash has tiny white dots. I think it works just fine. I do wish I had a mod girl with flat feet to model the dress. She could wear flats (as the YSL girls did, with big buckles) or white go-go boots. The dress would also fit her better in the bust than the Silkie girl, as the made-to-move dolls had proportions more similar to vintage Barbie. Another girl? Hmm. I don’t know…