I’ve been sewing more garments for myself lately, but with mixed success. There are a few reasons for this: I’m picky, I’ve changed shape since my glory days (when I always cut a size Vogue 8 and it always fit), and I’m learning new tricks. Previously, I’ve mostly sewn woven fabrics but have been learning to sew knits. There are new techniques to learn and new tricks, and also some old habits that are hard to leave behind. I’ve also been experimenting with patterns from indie designers instead of just shopping from the Big4. These designers don’t always come to patterns with the same assumptions, which is both exciting and (sometimes) vexing.

I love skirts and wear them a lot. It makes more sense for me to sew skirts than pants, and makes for an easier fit, too. One of the skirt patterns I go back to all the time is Vogue 7947. It’s a Five Easy Pieces pattern (they probably don’t make those anymore) including a jacket, shell, dress, skirt and pants. The pattern isn’t available anymore and the photographs are pretty dark on the envelope.

The skirt has a yoke and is slightly flared. The top edge sits just below the waist, which makes it really comfortable. The hem falls just below the knee. It has a side zipper, which is slightly less than ideal, but I’ve never taken the time and trouble to split the back yoke and move the zipper to the centre back. I’ve made this skirt a lot, from a wide variety of fabrics.

Here’s the schematic from the back of the pattern envelope:

So, when I saw the Ravinia Skirt from Love Notions, I thought “aha! this is the knit version of my fave skirt.” Well, it didn’t quite work out that way, but that’s okay—sewing fails are disheartening, but I always learn something from them. One big takeaway here is that I want to sew knits the way I sew wovens, and that’s not always the best strategy.

Love Notions is an indie pattern company probably best known for their Laundry Day Tee, which is a free pattern download for an a-line t-shirt and a pretty easy knit. I downloaded that pattern, then indulged in a few more because they were having a sale. The patterns are sold as PDF downloads, which you then print and tape together (ugh) or take to a shop to have them printed on a single sheet. All of the sizes are on the same page, the way Burda patterns have always been. Unlike Burda patterns, though, the seam allowances are included. Unlike Big4 patterns, the seam allowances vary in width between companies and even within a design itself. I’m so used to that 5/8″ standard from the Big4. Now I go through the instructions in advance and circle or highlight the seam allowance so I don’t mess up. Love Notions patterns tend not to have notches to match pieces – they have little bars that you need to transfer to the fabric. (I now cut notches instead since I’ve never liked transferring markings.)

The Ravinia Skirt can be cut in multiple lengths, has a full swingy skirt, a contour waistband that sits below the waist (a fave style of mine) and – pockets!

I wanted to love this skirt so much. I made it twice and in the end, I’m just not a fan. It’s comfortable to wear, but I don’t think it’s that flattering. What’s the difference between it and my standard skirt? Gathered pockets, and that is my issue. In the end, I liked having pockets but not how they looked.

I also found this a confusing pattern, and so I did a lot of stitch ripping. I had to read the directions multiple times to figure out what I was supposed to do—since I’ve sewn a lot of skirts together.

The first version I sewed was in a knit remnant with a red graphic design. I thought I had enough for the shortest version—I’m glad I checked the length before cutting, though. I prefer skirts to be just below the knee and the shortest (“knee length”) would have been above my knees. I’m 5’5″ so it’s not because I’m tall. I added four inches to the skirt length and the finished skirt is just below my knees. I put one pocket piece in backwards by mistake—the wrong side is showing instead of the right, but it’s the pocket facing against the skirt front, so no biggie. I followed the directions to zigzag a length of elastic around the top of the waistband and really disliked how it looked and fit. I ripped it out. As a result, the skirt fits but the waistband is really loose – if I lose 5 lbs, it’ll fall right off. This one isn’t a keeper, but it was a test sew.

You can see that part of the issue is body shape. Nell is rocking this skirt much better than I do, but then my tummy is a little more fluffy since lockdown. (Nell remains as svelte as ever and I had to pin it at the back for her.) So, it’s possible I’ll like this more after I lose those pounds – but I’ll have to redo the waistband.

On this one, I used the option of binding the pockets with a self-facing, the way you’d bind the neckline of a t-shirt. This looks nice, but it’s really thick and stiff, which doesn’t keep those pockets from bulging. There are six layers of fabric under the top stitching: the skirt, the pocket lining, the edging and seam allowance on the back, plus the edging and seam allowance on the front. To be fair, this is my issue – the pattern instructs you to top-stitch the binding in place without turning under the seam allowance on the inside of the pocket, then to trim away the excess. This would leave a raw edge on the inside of the pocket, which I thought might fray with wear. I also thought it might be visible.

Here on my pocket, you can see the wrong side of the fabric on the facing, which was my mistake. You can also see that it’s a puffy little gathered pocket and that the weight of it pulls the side seam toward the skirt front. It reminds me of a medieval purse. 🙂

I cut a second skirt in the calf-length variation out of a really soft drapey knit which is black with flowers. Of course, the fabric weights more and there’s more of it, so I tried the option of adding power mesh into the back of the waistband in an effort to defy gravity. This very effectively tightened the waistband—too much. I couldn’t wear it. I didn’t want to rip out all the stitching, so I just cut off the waistband, making the skirt 1/2″ shorter. I cut a new contour waistband, trying it on before attaching it to the skirt and shortening it to a snug fit before attaching the skirt. it’s comfortable now and I have more confidence in it staying up than the red one, but I’m still not smitten.

Nell, however, looks great in it. (Even if the picture is on a bit of an angle.)

On this one, I piped the edges of the pocket. I did not use cotton cord as suggested by the pattern, because this skirt will be machine washed and when it is, the cotton would shrink. I used a black polyester cord from my stash instead. I think this is a better finish than the top-stitched version, but it’s still bulky. There are six layers of the knit in the seam allowance – the skirt and seam allowance, the pocket facing and seam allowance, and the two seam allowances from fabric covering the piping – but it’s all in the gathers. This leaves the edging less bulky and stiff than the first option, but doesn’t keep that pocket from being puffy. In this softer knit, it really pulls the side seam forward.

And in the end, I just don’t love the skirt. This project doesn’t feel like a win, but I did learn a bit about edging pockets. The funny thing is that I discovered that I have a linen skirt that I don’t love so little that I’d forgotten I had it. It’s a Vogue pattern, too, but I don’t know which one. I love the fabric and it has my fave a-line shape—but it has front slash pockets. They’re not gathered, but they still change the look and hang of the skirt. At least I’m consistent.

I’m going to give the black skirt a try this winter. I’m going to make a long-sleeved t-shirt of the same black print and hem it to fall just at the base of the contour waistband. That might work as I like having a top and skirt that go together to look like a dress.

I may also try to modify it to have flatter pockets. If I give that a try, I’ll let you know. In the meantime, I cut another Vogue 7947.