Revisiting McCalls 7550

McCalls 7550

The first sewing pattern I used for the 11.5″ girls was this one, McCalls 7550. That experience taught me to look at the dolls modelling the garments in the picture, because nothing I made from this pattern fit my vintage Barbies. I made the sundress (shown in a blue floral) in navy and again in pink, and it just barely fit the Silkstone girls. The pattern is drafted for dolls that are less curvy than vintage B.

Here’s my post about those dresses.

Now, of course, my newest girls have a different body sculpt than vintage B. original Silkstone or articulated Silkstone. The Made-to-Move Original body is smaller in the bust and hips, and generally less curvy. I have the Looks 20 redhead, and the blonde from the new Basic Black series has the same body sculpt. I was wondering what patterns to use for them – the garments that fit the Silkies are a bit big in the bust for the MTM Original body – and remembered this pattern.

Aha! It works brilliantly.

Let’s have a look. I made sundresses again – that view has a halter top – but left out the crinolines. Here’s one of them in a cotton print (with cotton voile lining) on Barbie Basics #2: (Hmm. Now I see the red thread on the front of her skirt. Oops!)

McCalls 7550 view B on Barbie Basics #2 sewn by Deborah Cooke

I’ve always thought these hats were funny – they’re made of two circles of fabric with a wedge cut out, like a piece of pie. The opening is then seamed, like a dart, and the two sides sewn together and turned. It looks like a plate to me BUT it’s hard to make hats for the girls. In the first place, they’re fiddly, and in the second, they often are too small to sit well on their heads. When they’re made big enough, they look disproportionate. I love hats and this frustrates me. I tried the disc hat on a whim, and it actually looks pretty good. Who would have guessed?

The shoes make me laugh. They were included in a mixy-mixy bundle of shoes for B. They should have red soles because they look like Christian LouBoutin’s Daffodile pumps embellished with Swarovski crystals. (Nothing but the best for the girls!) I’m trying to figure out a way to neatly paint the soles red and make them sparkle. Too bad I only have a white pair.

I also made the jacket and pants (shown in pink on the pattern envelope) with the top but without the scarf. I used pleather for the pants and these are snug even on MTM Original. It might be the fabric.

McCalls 7550 view E on Barbie Looks #20 sewn by Deborah Cooke

They look great, though, and the length is perfect. I made the top but didn’t like it particularly. It’s a little loose in the bust on this girl but just a relaxed fit. I changed the neckline to a V instead of the round neck so now that top looks a bit like scrubs to me. That may be the issue for me.

Instead of the top, I knit a top from Sticka-til-Barbie, #263, in black Malabrigo Sock. Here’s the Ravelry link for that pattern. Like so many of these patterns, it’s a quick and clever knit. I made the decreases mirror each other, but otherwise just knit as written. This one is a little confusing – it’s knit in the round to the bottom of the front slit, then you need to work past the CB to the othet CF with each row.

The jacket is also quilting cotton, also lined in cotton voile.

I tried both on an articulated Silkstone and an original Silkstone.

McCalls 7550 view B on articulated Silkstone Barbie Best in Black sewn by Deborah Cooke

This is a little loose in the waist and fits perfectly in the bust on the articulated Silkstone. (She’s Best in Black, btw.) If I was sewing specifically for her, I would just move the waist snap 1/8″.

Here’s an original Silkstone in view E.

original Silkstone Barbie in view E McCalls 7550, sewn by Deborah Cooke

This is A Model Life. The pants are quite loose around the waist for her but fit okay through the hips. I think they could be a teensy bit longer. She refused to wear the red boots, btw. 🙂

She also wasn’t fond of the sweater, as if was quite loose for her, especially in the waist. She preferred this little short sleeved cotton top that I drafted up for the Barbie Basics 20. (She liked it, too, but it didn’t fit under the coat, which she loves.)

Sticka till Barbie top #263 knitted by Deborah Cooke in Malabrigo Sock and modelled by an original Silkstone Barbie (It's a Model Life)
Short-sleeved top drafted and sewn by Deborah Cooke, modelled by an original Silkstone Barbie (It's a Model Life)

So this pattern that I’d set aside in frustration is now a go-to for the newest girls. This pattern is still available new, in either print or downloadable PDF. Here’s the link to the product page at Simplicity patterns.

I’m now regretting that I chucked out the suit I made from this pattern. It’s shown in green on the envelope, a dress and jacket, and I made it of ivory silk. It was soooooo pretty but it didn’t fit any of my girls then. I guess I’ll just have to make it again – but now, I have a piece of green silk that will be just perfect.

McCalls 7550

McCalls 7550

McCalls 7550 is a mini-wardrobe of vintage styles for 11.5″ fashion dolls like Barbie. It’s a current pattern, and I’ve linked it to the Simply Delightful website for Vogue, Butterick and McCalls patterns. You can buy it in hard copy or as a digital download, either there or from a local fabric store. I have a hard copy.

I liked the vintage look of these garments for Barbie and made the sundress shown in blue and white on the pattern envelope. It’s a halter back dress with a full circle skirt and is Dress E.

Here are the pattern line drawings:

McCalls 7550

I made this first in a green quilting cotton but wasn’t as happy with the result as would have been ideal. Piecing that bodice is fiddly and it’s a challenge to get those seams to lie flat on the front. My corners didn’t turn as nice crisp points even though I trimmed the seam allowances. And the bodice is tight on my vintage Barbie. I think there are three reasons for this: first, the doll photographed is a newer and less curvy model; and secondly, the fabric is probably thicker than would be best, and thirdly, I didn’t follow the directions closely for the back.

Here’s Babs showing off that version:

McCalls 7550 view E sewn by Deborah Cooke

The front looks good, but see at right how the back gaps open. (And yes, I sewed on little contrasting buttons.)

McCalls 7550 view E sewn by Deborah Cooke
McCalls 7550 view E sewn by Deborah Cooke

Even on this version, I did make some changes. First, I sewed lace on the hem on the tulle underskirt. Secondly, the bodice is lined, but after piecing it, you’re instructed to sew around the raw edges of the center back and waistline – when you join the skirt, there will be a raw edge inside the garment. I couldn’t see the point of having a lining if that was the case, so I tucked the raw edges in between the bodice and the facing. I had done the same for the center back, but then didn’t have enough fabric for a good overlap for the snaps – that contributed to it being tight. Finally, I added a ribbon around the waist, sewing it into the center back seam on each side, then tying it at the front and tacking it down there so the bow can’t come undone.

I made the dress a second time, and read the directions for the back more closely this time. This version is better. This is another quilting cotton but it’s not as thick as the green print.

McCalls 7550 view E sewn by Deborah Cooke
McCalls 7550 view E sewn by Deborah Cooke

I forgot to tuck the ribbon ends into the center back seam (duh) so had to sew them by hand. This time, I only used one layer of tulle instead of two, but I put lace on the edge again. This one also got a ribbon rose and (again) contrasting buttons. 🙂 I made the same changes with putting raw edges inside the bodice and facing, but only used a 1/8″ seam allowance at the center back instead of 1/4″. This fit vintage Barbie much better and the opening below lies more smoothly. I think it should be finished more, though, so there’s a version three.

McCalls 7550 purses sewn by Deborah Cooke

I also tried both purses from this pattern in a shiny fake leather. I love the clutch – which is upside down in the picture! – and it was both quick and easy. The other purse is a bit floppy, plus I thought the strap was short and thick. The flap curls on that one, too, so maybe the fake leather needs to be doubled over or interfaced. Maybe the bag needs to be lined. Modifications are required!

For version three of the sundress, I applied fusible knit interfacing to the center back seam allowance for the skirt. This will ensure the edges can’t fray after the garment is done.

And here’s version three with the new purse!

McCalls 7550 view E sewn by Deborah Cooke

My model is a Silkstone Barbie, new to me. She’s Lingerie #2 from 2000 and I bought her NIB on eBay. Her hair needs to be redone since the elastics have disintegrated over time and her lingerie is a bit yellowed. I’ll give it a handwash to see if that will clean it up. I hadn’t seen a Silkstone Barbie before and there are cool things about her – a little more detail in the sculpt and the material makes her heavier. Her knees don’t bend, though.

I was so busy trying to get her to hold her new purse that I didn’t realize she was doing a drunk-lean on the steps.

This quilting cotton is probably the thickest of them all and that made the flamingo dress a bit challenging. I’m tempted to try one in Liberty Tana Lawn just to see how much easier it would be in a thinner cotton, but I need a break from this dress.

Fiddly fiddly sewing for Barbie! I like the challenge, though, and I’ll show you some market bags that I created in 1/6 scale next.