Incredible Custom Fit Raglan in Big Wool

This is about a sweater I just finished. Despite the title of this post, I really love the sweater – what was breaking my heart was the yarn. Like all heartbreaks, this one is a bit of a saga. Here we go.

I very seldom buy the actual yarn specified for any given pattern. I tend to raid my stash first, then look for sales. So, as much as I love the Rowan patterns and books, I’ve knit very few items designed by Rowan in Rowan yarn. That changed last fall when I fell head over heels for a sweater called Voyager. It called for Rowan Big Wool, which is very thick yarn, much thicker than anything in my stash. I looked around but couldn’t find anything comparable. Fortunately, I discovered that my favourite colour – 28 Bohemian, which is a two-tone red – was discontinued. It was on sale at half price.

Even at half price, 14 balls was a hefty investment. I was a bit stressed about the cost of the sweater before I even received the yarn. But it arrived and I loved it and I cast on immediately. The pattern stitch on the sweater called for a purl 3 together, which was a bit of a challenge, but I persisted and knit it all up. Then I tried it on.

Oops. It looked TERRIBLE on me. I didn’t even sew in the ends – I frogged the sweater immediatel and returned the yarn to the stash.

But I still loved the yarn. And it had been comparatively expensive. I had to use it! I tried a number of other sweater patterns, but nothing worked out. I didn’t get gauge or I didn’t like the look of the stitch or whatever. Finally, I decided to just knit a top down raglan in it. This is a really easy pattern and always results in a sweater that fits. There’s a tiny bit of math to do for the neck, then you knit, and periodically try it on as you go. Easy! I knew I wanted a cardigan that was more like a jacket in length. I knew I wanted a big collar. I knew I liked how the yarn looked in seed stitch and wanted the hems done in that stitch. So, I did my bit of math, and started knitted.

The one thing about knitting with big wool on big needles (9mm!) is that sweaters get done fast.

Here’s the sweater that resulted:Raglan cardigan knit in Rowan Big Wool by Deborah Cooke

What I did for the collar was cast on a lot of stitches – I think it was 80. I knit the edge the same as I’d do the hem (should have done 7 rows instead of 5, but there you go) then worked for several inches. I then decreased down to the neckline, in exactly the same way as I’d increase for the raglans. The really cool thing is that the collar kind of curls up against my neck. I didn’t expect that but I like it a lot.

And here’s a detail of the back:Raglan cardigan knit in Rowan Big Wool by Deborah CookeI added a kind of a pleat at the centre back to add ease of movement. I also added a passamenterie frog back there, to echo the fasteners at the front – these are done in I-cord.

The one complication is the weight of this sweater. It used 12 100g balls of yarn. That means it weighs 1.2 kg or almost 3 pounds. (It is heavy. It was a huge mound on my lap when I was knitting the last rows!) So, I had concerns about the weight of the sweater stretching it down. I added I-cord inside the collar to ensure that the neck keeps its shape. To do this, I picked up all of the purl bumps on the row where the collar becomes the coat, then knit applied I-cord right across, sewing in the ends. I also used anchor buttons behind each of the buttons you can see on the outside. This ensures that the button never rips free of the knitting, or tears the fabric. Either of those things can happen with weight.

I could have made it longer – I have two balls of wool left, which would have given me another 7 or 8″ of length – but I thought I’d be less likely to wear a coat than a jacket. I think I’ll make an earflap hat with the rest of the wool. I need a red one.

What do you think of my heartbreaker? Do you love it as much as I do? Have you had a knitting project that came together when you thought it might not?

Another Citron

Here’s a shawl I just finished last week. There was an idea that it might be a Christmas gift, but it was running so late that the planned recipient got something else. Now, I guess it’s mine!

It’s a free pattern from Knitty, called Citron.

I made a Citron last year in Noro Kureyon Sock yarn, but it came out much smaller than this one. There’s a post about it, back here. Here’s the new one:Citron by Hilary Smith Callis knit in Waterloo Wools Kirkland and Malabrigo Lace by Deborah CookeThe yarn is a handpaint that I bought at the Kitchener Knitters’ Fair last fall, and (incredibly) it didn’t need to age in the stash before I cast on. It’s from Waterloo Wools and is called Kirkland. The colour is a bit more burgundy than it appears in the pictures – the flash seems to have made it look pinker. The base yarn is very similar to Malabrigo Lace. I used smaller needles than the pattern says, because I like the look of Malabrigo Lace on 3.5mm needles.

This time, I wanted the shawl to be bigger, so I did seven rounds of the pattern before the ruffle. (Yup, I had to figure out the increases myself, but it wasn’t that hard.) The skein had 840 yards and I used most of it – if the hem had been in the same red, I would have used it all up. It’s a good size, though – it comes down to my elbows.

I also added beads to the last four repeats, putting them in the flat part with greater density each round. I wanted them to get more dense toward the hem.

Citron by Hilary Smith Callis knit in Waterloo Wools Kirkland and Malabrigo Lace by Deborah CookeSince the beads were dark (black with red linings) and the yarn is very much like Malabrigo Lace, I dug into the stash of leftover bits and pulled out some Malabrigo Lace in black. I worked two rows of stockinette in black at the hem of the ruffle, but then it curled when casting off – so I added a row of purl on the RS, then cast off on the WS. There are some beads in the black as well. It still curls a bit, but I have mixed feelings about blocking it – the ruffles flattened out when I blocked that last Citron and didn’t really ever come back. Maybe I’ll live with the curl.

It makes me think of flamenco dancers. Fortunately, I don’t have any castenettes!

Spider’s Web Shawl

This is the semi-circular Spider’s Web Shawl from Jane Sowerby’s book, VICTORIAN LACE TODAY. One of these days, I’ll knit the full circle version. The yarn is from Fleece Artist Merino 2/6 which comes with a skein of Angelhair dyed the same colourway. I used the yarns separately, knitting the middle of the shawl from the merino and the lacy edge from the Angelhair.  Spiders' Web shawl by Jane Sowerby knit in Fleece Artist Merino 2/6 and Angelhair by Deborah Cooke I used another Fleece Artist yarn, Somoko, in red for the band between the two sections and for the outer hem. See the gold beads?

Spiders' Web shawl by Jane Sowerby knit in Fleece Artist Merino 2/6 and Angelhair by Deborah Cooke

Peacock Feathers Shawl

I finished a shawl this weekend and am not sure how much I like it.

Last summer, at the RWA National convention in San Francisco, Pam and I went on a bit of a yarn crawl. We had searched online before going and had a list of potential shops to visit, and at one, I bought a skein of Aurora Yarns’ Whisper. It’s a 100% merino laceweight that is handpainted in northern CA – this skein was shades of fuschia, red, burgundy and purple. Very pretty. Very soft. The colours are incredibly rich, and there was 1250 m on the skein.

Once home, I had to figure out what to knit with it! I ultimately decided on a pattern from Fiddlesticks Knitting called the Peacock Feathers Shawl. And I decided to put some beads around each “eye” of the peacock feather. Here it is:Peacock Feathers Shawl knit by Deborah CookeIt’s ENORMOUS, so hard to photograph. It has been blocked, and relaxed a bit when released. The first image (of the whole shawl) shows the actual colour best.

Peacock Feathers shawl knit by Deborah CookeHere’s a detail shot of the corner:

It looks better in the photos, but I still think the lace is too open. Mr. C. says it looks delicate, which is another way of looking at the same issue. Since this yarn was so fine – much finer than the Zephyr specified in the pattern (now it specifies Exquisite) – I dropped 3 needle sizes, from 3.75mm to 3.0mm.

Peacock Feathers Shawl knit by Deborah CookeI think I should have gone to 2.5mm. I was worried about it being too small if I did that, but the finished shawl blocked to 80″ across the top. (The pattern has a finished size of 88″ across the top.) So, I could have gone smaller with the needles and still had a shawl plenty big enough.

But I’m not going to frog it!

What do you think?