Another Quintessential Cardigan

The Quintessential Cardigan is a jewel-necked long-sleeved cardigan that is just a wardrobe staple. I bought it as a kit in two colourways, green and purple, with a tweedy yarn. Here’s the green one, which I finished almost a year ago:

Quintessential Cardigan knit by Deborah Cooke in Jody Long Alba

And here’s the post about it.

I cast on the purple after finishing the Which Way Shawl. This time, I decided to knit the button bands in moss stitch instead of ribbing. I’ll also add a few more stitches to the cuffs to make the wrist a little wider. The sleeves on the green one fit, but I often push up my sleeves and that’s a big snug with wrists like this. I like how the tweed is knitting up.

Quintessential cardigan cast on by Deborah Cooke in Jody Long Alba colourway Kilt

This style of cardigan is one I wear a lot, so I also got out two others of a similar shape to compare the fit. On the left is one of my Hebrides cardigans, knit in Rowan Kidsilk Haze. This is my favourite cardigan – light, warm, pretty and a perfect fit. The hems and button bands are in moss stitch on this one. On the right is my Lunenberg cardigan, knit in Koigu KPPPM. This one is a little wide in the shoulders and the sleeves are a bit long, but that’s okay since I push them up. I also wear this one a lot. The hems and button bands are in garter stitch on this one.

Hebrides by Lisa Richardson knit in Rowan Kidsilk Haze Stripe by Deborah Cooke
Lunenberg Cardigan by Andrea Hungerford knit in Koigu KPPPM by Deborah Cooke

Comparing them all, I decided to make the body of the Quintessential cardigan slimmer as well as longer, turning it to more of box shape. I did lengthen the pattern last time by 2″ but still had yarn leftover, so it can be even longer than that (esp if it’s narrower). The moss stitch hems will help with that change of shape, too.

Onward with a thousand miles of stockinette!

Bye-Bye Tegna

Tegna by Caitlin Hunter

Tegna is a pullover designed by Caitlin Hunter – that’s the pattern picture on the right, which is linked to the Ravelry page.

I cast this on with Koigu KPPPM in colourway is 534 a long, long time ago, but this week, this story had its resolution.

The pattern is unusual in ways I didn’t anticipate.

First off, every size sets up with an odd number of repeats in the lace pattern at the hem. My size requires a cast-on of 340 stitches which means (20 sts per repeat) 17 repeats of the pattern at the hem. So, the front and the back will be different and the side seams – there technically aren’t any, but there is a midpoint on the side to divide for the armhole – will be in the midst of a pattern repeat. I knew this would drive me nuts, so I cast on 320 stitches, putting me between sizes. This way there are 16 repeats, which is 8 for the front and 8 for the back, a change that gives me joy.

You might remember this pic of my Tegna on the needles after I completed the lace hem. I really wasn’t loving this colourway or its inclination to pool, so I began to switch between three skeins for the plain stockinette body.

Caitlin Hunter's Tegna knit by Deborah Cooke in Koigu KPPPM

The biggest issue is that I thought the t-shirt had an a-line shape, but it doesn’t. There are decreases over the lace – I decreased from 340 stitches to 224 – but then the body of the sweater is knit straight to the underarms. So, it’s actually more like a straight shirt with a frill on the bottom.

Here’s the schematic from the pattern:

schematic for Tegna pullover

It’s also intended to be a cropped sweater, but that’s not for me. I knit three inches more before dividing for the underarms. This is when I began to really doubt my pattern choice.

When you split the work for the underarms, the instructions are to add stitches at each side, front and back, for several rows after the split is made. I’m not sure why this would be, as it’s already got a dropped shoulder. I knit this and frogged it back. (On Ravelry, some knitters say this made a little bulge at the underarm. Hmm.)

I don’t love sweaters with dropped shoulders as I feel they look frumpy on me. Instead, I had a look at my gauge and stitch counts, and dug out my Hebrides cardigan pattern. The needle and gauge is the same. I’ve used those decreases to convert this sweater to having a fitted shoulder.

I would need to use the sleeve pattern from Hebrides to figure out a sleeve for this modified Tegna, so that the sleeve cap fits into the shoulder. I could start just below the cast-off for the underarm in the Hebrides pattern. I could go with a plain sleeve that is more-or-less fitted, or put the lace on the hem so it flutters a bit more. I was thinking this would result in a swingy top with a fluttery hem.

At this point, I’d made enough changes that I began to doubt the outcome. Plus, the sweater looked small. Here it is, fresh off the needles with the back done.

Caitlin Hunter's Tegna knit by Deborah Cooke in Koigu KPPPM

What’s interesting is that switching skeins didn’t seem to avoid the pooling of the colours – each skein more or less lined up, light and dark, with the others, creating the swirl. That’s either a strange coincidence or some kind of magic.

I gave it a soak at this point and blocked it out to check the sizing after all my mods. It did stretch, as Koigu does, and you can see the lace pattern better even though I didn’t block it hard.

Caitlin Hunter's Tegna knit by Deborah Cooke in Koigu KPPPM

And here it is with a t-shirt that fits me well, for comparison.

Caitlin Hunter's Tegna knit by Deborah Cooke in Koigu KPPPM

It is a straight t-shirt with a frilly hem. I decided to chalk this up to experience and frog it.

Latitude pattern by Elizabeth Doherty

I also have the pattern for Latitude, which is a swingy sweater with stripes. This Koigu might end up there, maybe alternating with a solid-ish dark blue that I have in my stash.

I’ve thought for a while that I might like Latitude, but without the long sleeves. Just with fronts and backs, it ends up with a kind of short sleeve. I’ll wind up this Koigu, have a look for that blue and think about casting on.

Tegna Pullover

Tegna by Caitlin Hunter

Tegna is a pullover designed by Caitlin Hunter. here’s the pattern picture – it looks like a lovely summer top, doesn’t it? I’ve linked the picture to the Ravelry page.

I cast this on with Koigu KPPPM bought at the tent sale last summer. The colourway is 534.

My “hmmm” comes from the colour of the yarn not the pattern. I’m just not sure I love it.

I’ve finished the lacy hem bit and am alternating between three skeins as I knit in the round.

Here it is, all bunched up on the needles:

Caitlin Hunter's Tegna knit by Deborah Cooke in Koigu KPPPM

Here’s the yarn in the skein – the top row are all the same colourway, but you can see the variation between them. I started with the lighter ones – this top is knit bottom-up – and will shift into the darker ones near the shoulders. I think that will be more flattering, but we’ll see.

yarn from the Koigu tent sale 2022

I suspect I had a fear of pooling, which was why I stopped. I’m going to carry on with this one and hope for the best. If it pools into a spiral, it’s going to be frogged!

And this year at the tent sale, I’m going to look for colourways that are closer to solid like those navy ones at the bottom left.

That’s the end of my on-the-needles review. Now I need to get knitting!

The Final Navelli

I finally finished my teal Navelli, and it’s actually the season I could wear it!

You might remember that this top (which has been a cursed project) was a bit too short for my liking. Here it is alongside the red version of Navelli that I knit (and love):

Two Navelli knit by Deborah Cooke

I had knit the teal one first, in a larger size. I thought it was done and blogged about it here. For the red one, I went down a size, then discovered that I’d measured incorrectly while knitting the teal one. Here’s the post on the red one. I wasn’t really looking forward to ripping out the sleeves, neck and top of the sweater to fix it. It sat for a while, then I had an idea.

I picked out a row below the split for the sleeves at the underarm, putting the live stitches from the lower part of the sweater on one needle and the bottom loops from the live stitches on the top of the sweater on another. I knit two more inches onto the bottom of the sweater, then grafted the two pieces back together. The grafting took ages because of the number of stitches, but I kept reminding myself that I hadn’t had to reknit the top of the sweater.

Here’s the result:

Finished Navelli by Deborah Cooke

In this picture, you can see the newly knitted band. I wasn’t sure whether there was a difference in colour between skeins (it’s all the same dye lot, but Koigu sometimes varies anyway) or whether it would vanish when the sweater is washed. Those stitches look crisper and more tightly twisted than the rest. It turned out to be a bit of both – the stitches relaxed so they look like the ones that had already been washed, but there is a teensy bit of colour difference due to variation within the dye lot. There are a couple of lighter zones on the back and the front, but overall, I’m happy.

This one is FINALLY done!

Treasure from the Thrift Store

I found this sweater at the thrift store for a couple of bucks. It has a floral border around the hem – which matches at the side seams and must have been handknit – then a Scandinavian-style top. (You know that the white flicks in that stitch pattern are called “lice”, right?) It’s 100% wool and in good shape (no moth holes). It was made in Hong Kong and was sewn for the finishing – the button bands are sewn on and the button holes were worked by machine. So, it’s partly machine made, but very pretty IMO:

I washed and blocked it. Then because I am the way I am 🙂 I changed the buttons to give it a new look.

The buttons cost me more than the sweater, but I like them. What do you think?