Vogue Knitting Fair Isle Hat

There’s a hat on the cover of Vogue Knitting this fall, the new edition, and I’ve knitted one.

Vogue Knitting magazineFirst, here’s the issue of VK (fall 2016) and the hat in question. The hat is in the Modern Fair Isle article, which has some lovely patterns. (If you scroll down and click on the image of the hat, some alternate views will be displayed in a pop-up window.) The hat is knit of Rowan Felted Tweed and was designed by Mary Jane Mucklestone, inspired by some traditional Shetland hats in the museum there. I immediately liked the colors of the hat, so bought the magazine based on the cover.

My grey Bohus-inspired pullover is on the needles in Rowan Felted Tweed and Colourspun (it was also a design featured on the cover of VK that prompted me to buy the magazine) so I thought I’d make a hat to match – right now, the sweater is in that endless stockinette phase. I needed some instant gratification and this was it.

I didn’t want a hat of that shape, though.  Here’s my finished hat:Fair Isle hat by Mary Jane Mucklestone knit by Deborah Cooke in Rowan Colourspun and Rowan Felted Tweed

I followed the pattern until the fair isle section was finished, then knit another row. After that, I began to decrease like this:

Row 1 – *K10, K2tog, Repeat from * to end of round.
Row 2 – Knit
Row 3 – *K9, K2tog, Repeat from * to end of round.
Row 4 – Knit
Row 5 – *K8, K2tog, Repeat from * to end of round.
Row 6 – Knit
etc., until there are 12 stitches left. K2tog all around, pass the end through the remaining stitches and bind off.

It fits perfectly and is very warm. I knit another one in different colours, since I have a lot of scraps of Colourspun and Felted Tweed.

Fair Isle hat by Mary Jane Mucklestone knit by Deborah Cooke in Rowan Colourspun and Rowan Felted TweedWhat do you think?

VK Bohus Inspired Pullover

Vogue Knitting magazine winter 2015/16For a while now, I’ve been working on a pullover from Vogue Knitting’s winter 2015/2016 issue, a Bohus-inspired pullover. (If you’re on Ravelry, here’s the magazine issue and here’s the sweater.) It was on the cover, and was pretty much the reason I bought the magazine. What intrigued me about the sweater was the fit. It didn’t look like an Icelandic sweater with a round yoke, but like it had more of a straight yoke. Icelandic sweaters fit men really well IMO but often look puffy on women. This one looked sleek. It also used Bohus design elements. I have a Bohus kit (Vildapplet cardigan, right here) but am a bit daunted by it. Bohus style sweaters use multiple colours of yarn in a row (three or even four) and also purl stitches on the right side. They also are worked on tiny needles in colours that gradually shade into others, so I thought this VK sweater in a larger gauge would be good practice.

I didn’t have the yarn specified, so I dipped into my stash to look for options in that weight. I found my Rowan members’ yarn pack, which was three balls of Felted Tweed, one in Avocado, one in Bilberry and one in Watery. Hmm. The Avocado would work for the Leafy Palm: the Watery for Caspian, and I used the Bilberry for both the Oxblood and the Mecca. (I thought about adding a fourth colour, but couldn’t find one that I liked with the others.) What about the white and grey? I’ve knit Felted Tweed with Colourspun several times, which works out to be a nice squishy combination, plus Colourspun has been discontinued. (Boo.) This was a chance to make another sweater in that yarn before it’s gone forever. I bought Colourspun in Semer Water for the charcoal grey, and in Winterburn for the white. These two shades of grey are much closer together than the white and grey used in the pattern, but Bohus is known for its blending of colours so I figured I had that covered.

This is a top-down sweater, so the cast-on is at the neck. One good thing about top-down sweaters knitted in the round is that it’s easy to try them on as you go—just put the stitches on a thread and tug the sweater on.

There has been goofiness with this one, which is why you haven’t seen it yet even though I’ve been knitting since April. I’ve knit the yoke three times. The first time, I missed the purl stitches on the schematic and had just knit them, so I frogged back. The second time, I made the L size, because I wanted a nice sloppy sweater, but the yoke ended up being enormous. I tried it on, then had Mr. Math pinch back the yoke from behind me until it looked right in the mirror. Then I counted the repeats to take out. It turned out I needed to knit the smallest size in the yoke, so I knit it again. My gauge is slightly off—instead of getting 21 stitches in 4 inches, I’m getting 20. I like the fabric and don’t want it to be stiffer by using smaller needles. The thing is that over 200+ stitches, that little difference adds up.

I like the colours a lot, but it is a round yoke.Bohus inspired pullover knit by Deborah Cooke

I’d expected it to be more like a Bohus sweater yoke, which isn’t a complete circle when flat. Here’s a Bohus yoke photographed flat in the Swedish Bohus Museum, so you can see what I mean. I’ve seen other Bohus yokes that are closer to 3/4 of a circle, but they’re seldom fully round—When people photograph the pullover yokes, the knitting pulls up into a cone closer to the neck, rather than lying flat. That’s why Bohus sweaters tend to fit women well through the shoulders. We’ll talk more about Bohus sweaters when I get mine a little further along and post about it. I’d like to finish that yoke before showing it to you. (Right now, it’s about 1″ deep!)

So, this pullover going to fit a lot like a round yoke Icelandic sweater, when all is said and done. It looks like an Icelandic sweater in most of the finished projects on Ravelry, too. I’m resigned to the good chance of it being puffy, but because I do like the colours and the yarn, I’m carrying on.Bohus inspired pullover knit by Deborah CookeThe purl stitches look quite neat, and they blur the transitions between the colours in true Bohus style. I also like the slight variegation in the Colourspun. There are little bits of colour in the dark grey as well that don’t show up in the photo—a bit of blue, a bit of purple—and they pull it all together very well. Now that I’m into the plain knitting, it’s going much more quickly. I’ve divided for the arms and am working down the body, and will show you more soon.

I’m already thinking about the hems and the neck—the pattern has ribbing on the hems, but I might just let them roll. It also has the ribbed neck knitted separately and sewn on, which is unusual. I had thought about casting on with the ribbing at the neck (at the very top!), but I’m not sure I want it as tall as in the pattern. It’s good to be able to try it on to decide, but I’m concerned about the join showing. I’ll probably pick up the stitches, knit up and hope for the best.

I have no idea how I ended up knitting this warm fuzzy beast in the hottest summer I can remember, but there you go.

Cable Front Capelet

This is a project that I finished this fall – and started this fall, too. It went quickly because the yarn is so thick. In the winters, my back gets cold when I’m at my desk writing. I’ve knit vests and shawls and cardigans, but nothing has been just right. When I saw this cable front capelet in Vogue Knitting, I thought it might be just the thing. I already showed you the yarn and the knit back in this post.

Here’s the Ravelry link to the pattern. The designer is Sarah Hatton, who designs a lot for Rowan, too.

I substituted the yarn, using a new yarn that I found at Spinrite called Patons Delish. It has an interesting chain construction and is a wool/acrylic blend, with a gradual self-striping effect. Mine is the Kale colourway. They had mill ends on sale at Spinrite – 5 unlabelled skeins in a bag for $19.99 – so I decided to try it out. My capelet took 7.5 skeins.

And here it is:Cable Front Capelet by Sarah Hatton knit in Patons Delish by Deborah CookeThe green is much darker than it appears in this picture, even though I took this outside with no flash.

Modifications were minor. I didn’t want the cast-off edge at the top of the collar, so I knit 15 cm (instead of 7) and rolled the collar, seaming that edge to the inside. I haven’t added the five clasps to it – I might put one just at the base of the collar, if I can find one I like. I’m such a lazy toad that I didn’t even block it – I just seamed it up and started to wear it. It’s very warm and just perfect for writing – the elbow-length sleeves stay out of my way when I’m typing and having the front open keeps it from getting too hot. (It is a bad choice in the kitchen as the hems want to drag through everything, but that’s okay.)

This is one project that came out just right!

Cable Front Capelet in Delish

A bit late today with my knitting post. I was hoping to take pictures outside to show the colours better. Yesterday, it was drizzling so I waited. Today, it’s pouring, so you get inside pix.

This is a new yarn from Patons, called Delish. I saw it at Spinrite and was intrigued – it’s super bulky weight but has a chain construction. See?

Patons DelishThis makes it light and squishy. Hmm.

I bought some of the green because I’d been wanting to make a poncho or capelet for the fall. The pattern I’m using is from Vogue Knitting, called Cable Front Capelet. Because it has raglan sleeves, I thought it might stay on – or stay put – better than a poncho. Here’s the Ravelry link to the pattern. Here’s the back:Cable Front Capelet by Sarah Hatton knit in Patons Delish by Deborah CookeIt’s not blocked yet and the flash did make it look darker, but you can see the graduating stripe that the yarn makes. The chain construction isn’t that evident in the finished knitting, and it feels so wonderfully soft. I’m quite happy with how it’s working out so far. It’s a fast knit, too – I might really be done in time for fall!

What do you think? Have you tried any new yarns lately?

Long Cardigan by Lutz & Patmos

This one’s more like a jacket. It’s also knit in thick wool, on 8mm needles (the pattern specifies 9 mm but I had to go down a size to get gauge) so it knit up quickly. It was perfect television knitting.

I liked this jacket right from the outset. It’s in the Fall 2010 edition of Vogue Knitting, and was the first pattern – you can see it on Rav, right HERE. Here’s mine:Long Cardigan by Lutz & Patmos knit in Patons Wool Roving by Deborah Cooke

First modification – I left off the pockets.

Second mod: The back of this sweater, which doesn’t show on the VK link, has three enormous cables down the centre back. They’re kind of neat, because they’re so thick, but my DH took one look and said “looks like dinosaur vertebrae.” That was funny, but it was also a mental image I just couldn’t shake. I decided to ditch those massive cables, and work in the same cable pattern on the back as on the front. See?Long Cardigan by Lutz & Patmos knit in Patons Wool Roving by Deborah Cooke

(Once again, the flash has messed with the colour. The first photo is more true.)

Notice the construction technique – the back of the collar is knitted in stockinette so that it naturally rolls back. Clever clever!

If you want to do this, you need to recalculate the number of stitches for the back, to be a multiple of 8 plus 1. You also probably want to round down, as those big cables (the ones you won’t be knitting) tend to pull the fabric in quite a bit.

Third mod: Just to keep things interesting, I reversed the cable on the right front so that the two sides mirror each other. On the back, then, the same mirroring happens. I like it, even though I messed up and did it the opposite way around for the front. You wouldn’t have noticed if I hadn’t told you, right? I did one sleeve with the cable twisted right and one with it twisted left, then matched them to the fronts.

My fourth modification was the sleeve length. I’m not sure why designers think that coats or heavy sweaters should have elbow length sleeves. Maybe it’s a glam downtown look with long leather gloves. To me, it looks like someone miscalculated the yarn requirements. I want my forearms to be warm when it’s cold enough for this sweater! So, I lengthened the sleeves to the wrist.

This big scary calculation was what slowed me down. I put the project aside, because I had to figure this out, then it was summer and too hot to knit it. Ultimately, I decided to cast on 12 fewer stitches than the pattern called for. I did the ribbing at the hem the same as the fronts and back, then on the second cable twist, I increased one stitch at each end of the row. I continued like this, adding two stitches per row on every 8th row, until I had the final stitch count. Then I continued to knit until the sleeves were long enough to reach to the underarms – for me, this was 18″, because the sweater doesn’t fit tightly under the arms.

My only other modification was a yarn substitution. I got lucky one day on a trip to Spinrite, and found that they had bags of six balls of Patons Wool Roving on sale for $6.99. It’s usually that price per ball. (This is Moss, which is kind of an olive colour with some gold, too.) So, the cost of making this jacket was less than fifteen dollars, which works for me in a big way. I might have been able to make one sleeve in the specified yarn for that price.

What do you think?