It’s Miniature Monday and time to share some inspiration. Today, we’ll have a peek at the work of artist Salley Mavor.
I first learned about Salley when a friend shared the video of her work creating the illustrations for the children’s book My Bed. They’re not really illustrations – they’re fibre art sculptures which were photographed for the book.
On Salley’s website, you can check out a lot of her work, along with links to videos. My favorite tab is Polly Doll, who has been photographed in many places. Here she is in Ireland, in this pic from Salley’s website. (If you click on it, you’ll be taken to the Polly Doll tab.) Look at that fabulous little sweater!
Salley also has a book, Felt Wee Folk, about creating your own miniature figures. You can probably guess that I’ve ordered a copy. 🙂 Here’s the info about it on her website.
Here’s Salley’s website, Wee Folk Studio, where you’ll find lots of other inspiration.
Here’s another project I was working on in December but couldn’t show you because it was a gift. My friend collects dolls (like me) and her favorite is her Blythe doll with purple hair. I don’t have a Blythe doll – I’m not even sure I’ve seen one in real life – so it always feels risky to make for her, but I do it anyway. 🙂 Here’s last year’s gift to my friend and her Blythe.
Many of these knitting patterns are from the same designer, whose work is just so clever and cute. Her name is Jane Pierrepont and she publishes her patterns as Polly. Here’s her Ravelry profile. It looks like her website is gone. 😦
The gold and brown dress is her Blythe Lacey Mini Dress which is a free pattern on Ravelry. I knit this one in MadTosh Merino Light in the colourway Vanilla Bean. The dress is knit flat and then seamed, and knit from the top down. I joined mine in the round when the lace skirt started. I also mucked up the lace pattern (It was written for knitting flat and I was knitting in the round) so substituted a traditional one, Vertical Lace Trellis instead. In hindsight, it wouldn’t be that big of a change.
R1 as instructed. R2: P1, *P2tog, YO and repeat from * to end. R3: Knit R4: Purl
Here’s the back of the dress. I put snaps to close the back, then added four teeny buttons to the right side which aren’t functional.
Maybe I’ll make another with the right lace stitch!
The bolero is another Polly pattern, Blythe Shrug, also a free Ravelry download. (and a pattern I previously modified to fit Barbie.) This one is knit in a bit of leftover Koigu KPPPM. I made a little corsage by crocheting a daisy of KSH and adding some beads to the centre of it. The bag is one of my own market bags, which work for all 1/6 dolls.
The purple sleeveless dress and striped fuzzy top are from the same Polly pattern, which is not free (but is totally worth buying.) It’s called Cozy Comforts and includes the Pleated Pinafore and the Mohair Sweater. I made the dress in Rowan Felted Tweed since it called for a DK weight. I think a slightly lighter DK would have worked a little better – this one is a bit stiff. The top is knit in two colours of Sugar Bush Drizzle – that’s a Ravelry link, since Drizzle has been discontinued. I made mine striped, using two colours. Sugar Bush Drizzle is similar to Rowan Kidsilk Haze, specified in the pattern. These pieces took 13g of Felted Tweed and 3g (total) of Drizzle.
Here are the backs so you can see the button closures. I used KSH for the loops on both, since it’s a strong thread – Felted Tweed isn’t very strong and I was afraid it would snap with use.
Next up, Blythe needed several coordinating accessories. The messenger bag is one I’ve knit before. The pattern was a free download at stickatillbarbie.se , a website of free knitting patterns for dolls which is no longer hosted. I think you can find the patterns archived on the Wayback Machine, but here’s the Ravelry link for this one. I used up some sock yarn for this bag and modified the flap a bit to add a buckle. Here’s my original knit of this pattern, which is knit following the directions. The pattern calls for a crocheted strap, but I knit mine instead: c/o 50 stitches. K2 rows, P 1row, K2 rows, cast off purlwise.
And finally, fingerless gloves with teeny tiny button bands. The pattern is a free Ravelry download, and requires small needles. I knit mine on 1.6mm DPNs in Rowan Kidsilk Haze in Blackcurrant, which meant I had to knit them using the magnifying glass on my desk.
I also thought the flap looked backwards on the original, so I moved the thumb hole. The instructions for the change are on my Ravelry project page. There actually are little button holes on the flaps so the buttons really work.
I’ve been discovering a lot of interesting miniatures. so will start sharing them on Miniature Mondays. These displays are creative and inspiring – and sometimes surprising.
The Nutshell Studies were created by Frances Glessner Lee in the 1940’s. They’re dioramas of crime scenes, intended to help train detectives to solve homicides. Lee (1878-1962) was America’s first female police captain and a pioneer in developing forensic sciences. She worked with the Department of Legal Sciences at Harvard and created these miniatures to teach police investigators what to look for at a crime scene.
My Monster High and Ever After dolls are mostly thrift-store finds, which means they usualy come to me naked or close to it. I buy shoes for them online, but make clothes for them otherwise. I had written a post about a dress I made for my dolls from a free downloadable pattern – I also made a cloak to go with it that I figured out on my own. – but realized this week that I hadn’t published it. (I sent the dress and cloak to Astro Jen as a gift for her girls and didn’t want her to see them before they arrived – then I forgot to queue up the post. Gah. That’s why it published yesterday.) It’s right here. I need to finish the variations of that dress and cloak that I’d cut out for my own girls, but will show you both when they’re done.
Today, we’ll have a look at some tights I made for the girls last weekend.
The pattern is Leg-cessories from DGRequiem – here’s the pattern on Etsy. It’s a PDF download that you print out.
Here’s the designer’s Etsy store, and here’s her website and store. She offers a lot (a lot, a LOT!) of cute patterns for different dolls.
So, yes, this is a paid pattern, but it offers many options. There are socks and stockings/pantihose, plus tights in four lengths. (I want to make knee socks with lace tops still. They’ll look great with those little knitted dresses.) Even better, the instructions are really good and filled with tips for getting good results. It includes instructions for both machine and hand-sewing, and also there’s a sizing chart for the dolls. I only made tights so far, but I think this pattern is a good deal.
These two pair are my favorites.
The girls seem to like them, too.
They’re both cut from scraps of a cotton knit with a really large-scale pattern and repeat, but lots of teensy detail. The repeat is about 45″ in length. Here’s the Mirri dress I made from this print (it’s also at left) and here’s the link to the product page of the online shop where I bought it. The product page is still live, even though the fabric is sold out. You can see better detail of the fabric there.
I did some strategic cutting from my scraps, to end up with two legs from the same area of the print. They don’t even look like they’re from the same fabric, and I could make a dozen more unique pair. (And, yes, I just might.) This was also the easiest fabric to sew. It’s a cotton with lycra and a bit thicker than the others.
Did you notice that the girls have cardigans, too? I’m writing out that pattern to share it with you as a free download. Frankie also has one of the purses from a 5-Surprise Mini Fashion by Zuru (That’s a Chapters link.) because yes, after Astro Jen sent me the two pink purses, I surrendered to temptation and bought a pair of surprises myself. This green bag was in one of them, and the homage Louis Vuitton tote that I was coveting was in the other, so that worked out well.
But back to those tights. Here are a few more pair that I made last weekend:
These are like potato chips: I can always go for one more pair. I could have fitted them tighter (there are instructions for that) but the girls like to share and the EverAfter High girls aren’t quite as thin as the Monster High ones. The pair on the left were fussy-cut from a knit with wide bands of patterned stripes. The repeat on it is about 18″ so it was possible to cut several (many!) pair, all of which came out differently. (My naked Skeleta is coveting these.) The purple pair were also fussy-cut from a large scale paisley print. (Clawdeen wants those.) The next two were the obvious choices, cut from small-scale prints that are closer to being in scale for the girls. (Although, again, the brown print has areas that are predominantly teal, which would give a different look.) The last pair were also fussy-cut – that starry pattern has a lot of variation over the repeat and some “suns” that could fill half a piece. I chose places with smaller stars and similarly coloured background. Lots of tights for the girls!
And they have a space to keep them, too. Look at those empty clothes racks.
This is another of my DIY wardrobes for dolls. (That link is to my first one, for Barbie.) I used a paper box with magnets on the lid flap, and stood it on end. The back wall of the wardrobe should be the bottom, and the box top lifts. Now it drops down to be the dressing room floor. This box has a floral print on the outside and gold foil on the inside, which I like a lot. For this one, I made a U-shaped insert of bookbinders’ board and “wallpapered” it with a pretty print paper. It’s held in the U shape by the two clothing rods, which are bamboo skewers glued in place. They have bamboo beads at each end as escutcheons and all the bamboo was coloured black with a Sharpie marker. There are some hooks on the right wall, too, made of bent headpins. The mirror is a bevelled one from Michaels, framed with beads and backed with gold paper. The dresser is a make-up organizer from the dollar store. The rugs are screenshots of carpets printed on cardstock and cut out. (The front one is glued down.) I didn’t make a handle for this one and might not bother. (I’ll be busy sewing more clothes.)
Back to the leggings pattern review – this is a good pattern with lots of customizable options, clearly written with great instructions. I’ve bought several more patterns from this designer and will show you the results soon. (The girls are excited.)
My friend, Astro-Jen, collects EverAfter High and Monster High dolls (as well as others), so last winter, I made a dress for her doll. I started with this free pattern from ChellyWood.com called Small Doll A-Line Dress pattern. She offers a TON of free pattern downloads on her site, right here, sorted by doll height. The directory for 10″ dolls (like EAH and MH) is right here. I started with the green dress pattern at the bottom.
I cut the fuller skirt of View C and added a crinoline with a lace edge, much like McCalls 5770 for Barbie. The biggest challenge for making this dress is how tiny it is. The bodice is lined, just like the McCalls pattern, so all the ends are tucked inside. I used fusible interfacing (cut in a 1/4″ strip) to finish both the hem and the center back edges. I turned the hem just once and stitched it with twin needles, instead of trying to fold it twice.
Here’s the finished dress I sent to Jen, made in a rayon woven print. Of course, there’s a ribbon for a belt and a satin rose sewn to the front. 🙂
I also made a cape for her doll. I kind of winged the pattern, drafting an oval with the neck opening at one side. The fronts are curved so there’s a short flutter at the front and I made the hood big enough to go around the doll’s head. I cut it of black velvet, lined it with sand-washed silk (which is a special kind of hell to work with) and added two ribbon tabs at the neck. They have a snap on them, and a “jewel” on the front, which is a gemstone charm without the jump ring.
Sometimes you need a quick project. I’ve been pushing dragon alphabets around the floor and needed some close-to-instant gratification. My go-to in these situations is making for Barbie and friends. Modern Day Goddess is a fantastic little pattern for a slip-on sleeveless dress for 11.5″ fashion dolls – and it’s free! (That’s a Ravelry link.) It requires a bit of sock yarn and is knit in the round from the top-down. There are just two ends to sew in and it’s ready to wear.
I knit the first in leftover sock yarn with a slow gradation and a tweedy flick. I followed the directions as written, then noticed that the pictures all showed Barbies with the Model Muse body sculpt. I have one (rescued from the thrift store) so here she is in her first dress. (She was naked at the thrift store and has since been washed and had her hair redone.)
This dress is the same front and back, which makes it easier to pull on right. It fits like a dream and was really a quick project.
This Ms. B. is Top Model Resort Barbie from 2007, and originally looked like the image below:
Hmm. I need to steam down her bangs. But that hat! I see a listing for her on ebay NIB for $299US today, so I’ll stick with my thrift store girl and find a different hat.
The pink purse is a new acquisition – it seems to be hers now – which AstroJen sent me. It’s from a 5-Surprise Mini Fashion by Zuru. (That’s an Indigo listing. Amazon.ca doesn’t stock them. This company makes a lot of different miniature bundles, so check the fine print and make sure you’re getting the fashion bags if you want the purses.) Each one contains a mini purse and four other things (one might be a sticker. Hmm.) Jen sent me her duplicates, which was sweet. The purses are just the right size for the girls and are quite well made. (I succumbed and ordered a few myself now that I’ve seen them.) There’s a third one in kind of a silvery purple, but the Monster High girls made off with that one. (They made a quick getaway on the Vespa.)
My only concern with the dress was that vintage B isn’t the same size front and back. The blue one stretched tight over the front and the armholes gapes. I made some modifications on my second version to give her a little more fabric over the girls. This one is knit in Koigu KPPPM. Ms. B. is also rocking a purse from those surprise packs.
You wouldn’t know it from her expression but she’s happy about the better fit.
What did I change?
• In the original pattern, the top decreases are at the sides. I moved the decreases to be below the bust, like darts, because there are more of them. The pattern has this nice 6-st panel running down the front and back of the skirt, so I lined up the bodice decreases with that.
• I cast on 4 more stitches.
• I also knit 2 more rows before splitting for the sleeves. That makes the neckline a bit wider and less like straps.
• I cast off fewer stitches for the sleeves. The armhole gaped on vintage B, probably because the fabric was stretching across the front.
• I positioned the sleeves so there would be more stitches on the front than the back. (That’s where my extra 4 stitches went, in front.)
• I added 2 rows to the bodice length. From that point on, I knit following the original instructions.
I really like how both versions came out. I still need to block them both, and that will uncurl the necklines a little bit.
This process inevitably gave me More Ideas, so I’ll have another variation to share later. I also found paper boxes in the stores again (yay!) so will be creating two more carriers, one for the Barbies and one for the Monster High and EverAfter High girls. We need more closet space!
A while back, I told you about the Rolife miniature room kits I’d ordered. I’ve made good progress on one of them, along with a bunch of changes, and thought I’d share an update with you today.
Here’s the manufacturer’s picture of Sam’s Study. (That link will take you to the Rolife website, but you can buy these kits at many places, including Amazon and Walmart.)
Rolife Sam’s Study
This is one jam-packed little room! It also has a lot of orange, which didn’t thrill me.
Here’s my study, which is still in progress. You can already see that I’ve made changes.
The printed floor included in my kit has dark green squares instead of turquoise ones. Either way, it had to go. I bought a downloadable printable PDF on Etsy for hardwood floors, printed out the one I liked and laminated it with matte transparent contact paper. I then cut it to fit the raised floor and the surround, and glued it in place. It’s much darker than the brown stain on the included wood pieces, so I painted the two that edge the floor black. (In this picture, they need a second coat.) I also painted the ceiling lattice pieces black.
I “papered” the walls of my study with a William Morris wallpaper design, also a downloadable and printable PDF from Etsy. I changed the size of it to make it look right, printing it at 25%, then matched the pattern on the walls. I also papered around the outside of the box, as if there’s a hall and foyer beyond it. I’m moving some of the pictures out there.
I tried a few kinds of glue and had the best success with Aleene’s Original Tacky Glue. It’s a white glue that dries clear. It’s great for the paper and the wood pieces. For metal and beads, I used E-6000 which also dries clear (but smells a lot worse).
There are a couple of frustrating things about these kits, although overall I’m enjoying them. The scale is a little bit arbitrary (I talked about that last time) and seems to fluctuate between 1:12 and 1:24 scale, depending on the item in question. That’s probably part of what makes the room look so crowded. Also, the included materials tend to warp so it’s hard to get crisp square corners. Everything is a bit tippity, but maybe that’s part of the charm.
All of the book and picture elements are pre-printed on a very thin paper. This works really well for folding pages of a book interior, but is a lot less effective for a suitcase or a book box. (Many of the volumes on the shelves aren’t individual books – they’re five-sided boxes, printed with spines and pages, that you assemble and fit into the shelf in a block.) After I mucked up the suitcase (mine has been around the world a few times and is a bit battered as a result) I made a change to the book boxes: I glued them to a sheet of bristol board to give them more structural integrity then cut them out and built them. This worked really well.
That’s a book box at the front left, and my study with the chandelier installed. It looks really cool when it’s turned on, but the LED lights are really bright – they fake out the camera. I”ll have to get around that to show you the finished room. I hung the map so it’ll be centered over that left bookcase, which will be centered between the other bookcase end and the corner. The little red bookcase is going in the hall.
The chandelier was the toughest part IMO. I was a bit concerned the electrical work, but it was just holding all those pieces together that was complicated. I checked the lights constantly and they worked until the chandelier was installed. Now the one on the bottom doesn’t light up, but I’m not taking it apart. My chandelier also hangs a bit low, but that’s where it’s staying. 🙂 You can see that I need to use a marker on the floor line, too, something that isn’t evident IRL but the camera picks up.
Here’s what it looks like around the back:
This is my foyer and hall “wallpaper”. It’s an Italian paper that I bought when I took a bookmaking class. It came from 32 Degrees North, but they no longer have this one in stock. (They have a lot of other beauties – that link will take you to their Italian Papers page.)
Now I have bookcases to finish painting and book boxes to build. I’ll show you the miniature again when the room is done.
I compile year-in-review posts on my writing blogs, so thought it would be fun to do one here, too.
Finished Projects
I typically start a lot of projects and tend not to finish them quickly. Instead of looking at what hopped onto my needles this year, let’s have a peek at what was finished.
Felix in Noro CyochinNightshift in Koigu KPPPMStarling Wrap in Rowan Fine ArtFirst Snow in Noro CyochinSocks in Online SupersockeNavelli in MadTosh Merino LightJuicy Gloss in Koigu KPPPMBunny in Louet BonniePapillon in Noro Silk Garden SockSocks in Fleece Artist Trail SocksAlaska mittens in Sirdar Tweedie ChunkyAlaska mittens in Sirdar Tweedie ChunkySocks in Rowan Fine ArtTarragonFelix in Loving Path yarnsCrystal TwistStripes in Sugar Bush Motley
For Barbie
This year, I also started to knit and sew for Barbie and other (roughly) 1:6 dolls. This is fiddly and fussy, but kind of interesting. The last link is for a carrying case and wardrobe that I made out of a pretty box for my dolls.
Making the Wardrobe for Barbie got me thinking about miniatures. I have a shop for Barbie on the go and have also bought some miniature room kits. I’ll show you the first one of those (still in progress) tomorrow. Miniatures are definitely interesting so there will be more of them in my future!
2022 Plans
I didn’t have much success with sewing for myself in 2021 but I learned a lot so 2022 will be better. 🙂
And my quilting was pretty much ignored the past year. I’d like to finish piecing my my Moonglow and send it out to be quilted. It’s so pretty. The Escher quilt needs to be quilted and so does the Dragon quilt. I’ll get back to them all this year.
This is my second make from Kate Mitsubachi’s book, Stylebook of Doll’s Dress for Barbie. It’s called Soirée & Cape.
I love how glamourous and retro the fashions are in this book, and how lovingly they’re photographed. If you want to sew vintage for Barbie, this book is definitely worth a look.
Here’s the image of the dress from the photoshoot part of the book:
And here are the pattern instructions, just so you can see the mix. The instructions are all written in Japanese, but there are a lot of illustrations – if you know how to sew, it’s pretty easy to work out what to do.
That said, I’m finding that with each pattern, I have to make one to see where there need to be modifications. (This is actually true of all Barbie patterns so far. Every one of them seems to need a tweak. Part of that is the variation between different body sculpts, but the other part is construction choices.) This pattern shows a similar choice as that of other dress patterns for the girl – the bodice is lined, but the bodice and lining are sewn together at first, then treated as one piece after that. That leaves the raw edges of the big dart exposed on the inside of the bodice, and the seam allowance from the waist exposed, too. I don’t really see the point of lining the bodice if you’re not going to tuck all those seam allowances inside. (The point is that it’s easier to do it that way but the result still doesn’t give me joy.)
The first version of this dress I made in red crepe back satin. (Possibly a bad choice as that stuff is slippery!) It took me ages to figure out that pleat across the front, but now it seems so obvious. I then pleated the bodice lining, in reverse. I sewed the darts in the skirt at the waist, then pressed the pleats for that cluster of pleats. This was pretty easy – I laid the fabric on top of the pattern piece and folded it, one pleat at a time, then pressed the crease for that pleat before moving to the next one. This made it much simpler to gather those pleats together – because they radiate, they’re not all on the grainline. I sewed the bodice to the skirt waist, then sewed the bodice facing to the bodice. I hand-stitched the waist on the bodice facing, then added the “buttons” on the outside.
The tricky bit in my version is that the skirt waist extends beyond the CB of the bodice which leaves raw edge bits at the waist beyond the bodice. I finished the edge on those tabs, along with the CB edges of the skirt, then pressed the waist edge down. After sewing the CB seam, I top-stitched those waist edges and along the back opening of the skirt. I don’t love the back. 😦
I decided to hem the dress with self-bias, so cut 1″ wide bias from the fabric. I trimmed 1/4″ off the hem so the dress would finish to the same length as intended, then bound that edge. A pair of snaps on the back and it was done.
I’m only going to show you the front because the back still vexes me.
This is polyester crepe back satin, and those are seed beads on the bodice. I made the capelet of cotton velveteen lined with rayon Bemberg and used a small fancy button as a clasp. The gloves are made of that super-thin shiny knit from Fabricland that I mentioned previously—wow, does my sewing machine hate this stuff!—and she has another clasp purse from that McCalls pattern. It turns out I don’t love my hem solution. Mr. Math thinks the gloves make her look like she’s handling hazardous materials. I think the outfit looks Christmas-y.
The back remains vexing because 1/ those edges; 2/ the facing is bulky with the darts which means 3/ the fit is snug on vintage B—so skinnier Silkstone B wins this one. Here she is again with a “fur” cape that I knit for her:
Our model is Best in Black Silkstone B, (that’s an Amazon link since Mattel has taken the unavailable dolls off their site) who was divested of her crunchy black dress upon arrival. I took out the ponytail and just combed the hair over. I like her hair better loose although it is a bit wild.
The floor and wall are for my shop diorama but aren’t installed yet. I just propped them up on my sewing table to set the scene.
I had a think about the back of the ballgown and decided to try an alternate version with a simpler bodice facing. After pleating the bodice, I traced it on a piece of paper to make a pattern piece for the bodice lining. It’s a curve cut on the bias with no darts, and I cut it from Bemberg lining. I sewed the top seam of the bodice, attaching the lining, pressed the seam allowances toward the lining, then understitched that edge. It worked beautifully to make a nice edge at the top of the bodice. I sewed on two of the beads on the front to hold the pleat before sewing the bodice to the skirt, and also pressed up the waist edge of the lining. I also finished the CB seam allowances on the skirt.
After sewing the bodice to the skirt, I sewed the center back seams on the bodice. When piecing, I matched the cluster of pleats with the bottom of that front dart—that meant that one edge was even with the back of the bodice and the other extended 3/8″. The flush one was turned in 1/4″ and pressed, then top-stitched. I fused some knit interfacing to to the other edge to stabilize it at the waist, turned it in 1/8″ and top stitched across the extension at the waist, then down the CB seam. When I sewed the CB seam of the skirt, there was overlap in the skirt, instead of the dreaded butt opening – and all the edges are finished.
This makes me happy.
In fact, this version of the bodice gave me buckets of joy. It was simpler to constuct and the back is much neater. It also fits better – making this one a bit of a nipple-flasher for Silkstone B (if she had nipples, that is.)
This version is cut of black “Chinese brocade”, which is a very heavy polyester damask. Often these are multi-coloured but this one is just black. Our model is Dusk to Dawn Silkstone, a recent addition to my girls, and that’s another Amazon link. Her cape is knitted from a faux-fur yarn, closed with a hook-and-eye that has a sparkly.
Because of the thickness of the brocade, I knew I’d never manage a turned hem that was only 1/4″ wide in total. Instead, I fused knit interfacing to the wrong side to stabilize the edge, turned the hem 1/4″ and machine stitched it in place. Because it wanted to flip, even after pressing, I trimmed the seam allowance close to the stitching line.
I’m quite pleased with these and might manage to complete a few more in time for New Year’s Eve. Another completed mission in my Kate & Me challenge!
Next week, we’ll talk about stoles and capes, and making gloves.
This started as a quest for a string of pearls, but kept on going. Be warned – making these is like eating potato chips. You can’t stop with just one.
I made these necklaces on .5mm jelly elastic – knotted and secured with glue – and either 6/0 beads or plastic “pearls”:
You need to use a glue that remains flexible to secure the knot in the jelly, then you can cut the ends shorter. I used E6000.
Then I started to think about focal pendants (as one does). These butterflies were charms from Michaels, which I matched with other 6/0 beads.
Next up, I had a look through the other charms in my stash and tried these:
There are smooth teardrops with an A/B coating, little leaves with A/B coating, spiral charms and the one in the middle has the moon on one side and the sun on the other. I also realized that the jelly is stretchier than I’d originally thought, so I made some shorter necklaces.
These ones have faceted glass teardrops that are 9mm long. These were the smallest I could find and come on a string of mixed coloured drops. (I did find some quartz ones that are 7mm long, but they’re a lot more expensive.) Some of these are strung with 6/0 beads while others are with faceted glass 2mm beads.
Of course, you can go on and on with the variations. I’m thinking of necklaces with two or even three strands. Mixing the beads. Alernating beads. Beads of graduated sizes. (etc. etc.) Do my girls need dozens of necklace choices? No, but…potato chips!
We’ll see these in action when the girls model their ballgowns…
Alive & Knitting 