Simplicity 9913 – The Mondrian dress

I have been finishing up some projects this month, but haven’t been good about getting pictures taken. This week, we’ll catch up a bit.

Simplicity 9913

This pattern features designs from the 1960’s. It’s not currently available new, so I bought a digital download on Etsy. It’s Simplicity 9913.

I wanted to make the Mondrian dress, inspired by the Yves St. Laurent model on the right. Because I didn’t trust the download’s sizing, I made one in a solid color first. It actually came out reasonably well – the one difference is that I added a button band to the back closure to keep it tidy. I tried both hats but didn’t have much luck with either, maybe because my model’s hair is thick. They just perch on the top of her head, which looks silly.

Barbie Looks #20

My model today is a new girl here. She’s Barbie Looks #20 (that link will take you to the Mattel site) and was discounted on Cyber Monday. I’ve been wondering how the new articulated bodies differ in proportion from the other dolls in my collection so bought this one. The main difference in proportion is that her bust is smaller. She’s probably closest in size to the model muse body sculpt.

Her hair, btw, was not like this official picture. The ends were frizzy and it was very bulky – there was some product in it that made her ponytail as big around as my thumb. So, she had a boil wash and a trim. It’s still not like this picture, but is an improvement.

My idea was that she could be my sixties girl, instead of a Poppy Parker, so here she is in the test sew of the YSL shift. I made the dress in one color, with the purse. I used a 10″ square of orange quilting cotton (used it all up!) and lined the dress with cotton voile.

Test sew of YSL Mondrian dress, sewn by Deborah Cooke and modelled by Barbie Looks #20
Test sew of YSL Mondrian dress, sewn by Deborah Cooke and modelled by Barbie Looks #20

It’s a little bit loose for her in the front bust. It fits the vintage body sculpt perfectly through the bust.

She doesn’t seem inclined to be a sixties girl, maybe a contemporary girl who likes vintage fashion, as you can see from the Blundstone boots she’s chosen. She is very posable, which is fun, although I think her knees and elbows look odd.

Next up, the YSL dress with the color block. The black is done with a narrow ribbon topstitched to the dress, which is clever.

Wiki says there were six variants of the YSL Mondrian dress, though it’s tough to find pictures of them all online. Here are a couple of images from the September 1965 issue of Vogue, which featured the dresses. The one on the cover is the one you see most often.

cover of Vogue magazine September 1965
YSL Mondrian dresses in Vogue magazine, September 1965

This pattern is for the dress at the back in the right picture, probably because the front is symmetrical and that’s easier when you’re working small. There was a series of three Yves St. Laurent Barbie dolls released in 2018, including a Mondrian one wearing a replica of the front dress with the blue shoulder. You can see them all in this blog post at The Fashion Doll Chronicles.

I was also trying to find a picture of the back. The pattern has the back in pieces, making me think the middle panel on one side or the other must be in a color, too. I can’t find it, so I just decided to make one of them blue and put some yellow on one shoulder.

Here’s the finished dress:

YSL Mondrian dress for 12" dolls from Simplicity 9913, sewn by Deborah Cooke
YSL Mondrian dress for 12" dolls from Simplicity 9913, sewn by Deborah Cooke

I’m not much for clear yellows, so the only yellow fabric in my stash has tiny white dots. I think it works just fine. I do wish I had a mod girl with flat feet to model the dress. She could wear flats (as the YSL girls did, with big buckles) or white go-go boots. The dress would also fit her better in the bust than the Silkie girl, as the made-to-move dolls had proportions more similar to vintage Barbie. Another girl? Hmm. I don’t know…

McCalls 8532 Instant Wardrobe

McCalls 8532 Barbie Instant Wardrobe

This is an older sewing pattern for dolls that I found on Etsy as a digital download. Once upon a time, my grandmother made pantsuits with palazzo pants for my dolls and I wondered whether this might have been the pattern she used.

After downloading it, though, I realized there was a very neat feature about the designs – the suit and the coat are made of felt, so there are no edges to finish. In scale, it’s as if they’re made of boiled wool. Hmm.

One thing that is good about this download is that there’s a tape measure on each page of the PDF. This should make it easier to ensure that the pattern pieces are printed to scale. More about that in a minute.

Here’s my first attempt at the suit. The jacket is great as is (and very clever, too) but the skirt is meh, IMO. It’s just a tube with a paperbag waist and the same kind of belt-and-slits finish as the jacket. The result is quite bulky around her waist. I’m not showing you the paperbag waist because, well, meh. We can do better. 🙂

McCalls 8532 for Barbie sewn by Deborah Cooke
McCalls 8532 for Barbie sewn by Deborah Cooke

I’m a little concerned about how well the felt belt will wear. (There’s another one on the skirt.) With a lot of play, I could see it just shredding apart. I may make a fake leather belt next time.

The hat was enormous, probably to go over those early 60’s bubble cuts, so I cut it way down for the version on the right.

McCalls 8532 for Barbie sewn by Deborah Cooke

It’s still a bucket hat, so not the most flattering option possible. I like the felt, though, and it’s got me thinking about tweaking it to a more vintage style.

The dress had a lined skirt but an unlined bodice. I chose to do it the other way around since lining the bodice makes it easier to finish the neck and sleeve edges in this scale. I also modified the back to have an overlap in my usual way. I like it in this Kaffe Fasset cotton print.

McCalls 8532 for Barbie sewn by Deborah Cooke
McCalls 8532 for Barbie sewn by Deborah Cooke

There’s a triangular kerchief to match the dress that irked me a bit. I made two and hemmed hemmed them in two different ways – one with the edges turned under twice, as per the pattern, and one with fusible interfacing on the edges, then turned under once and zigzagged – but I don’t like either particularly. Maybe it needs a snap – there’s not much fabric to tie it in place. Hmm.

The knit top that is supposed to be sewn into the skirt came out so big that it fit Tyler instead of Barbie. Again, the construction is interesting so I’ll modify it a bit to make a t-shirt pattern for both Tyler and Barbie. I printed the pattern page so that the included tape measure is exactly right, but this makes me wonder whether the tape measure image was added later than the scan of the pattern piece – and is actually wrong. Hmm.

I still have to sew up the pantsuit, which I cut of a woven rayon jungle print, just for fun.

This pattern also made me aware of a lack in my doll accessories – I don’t have any white go-go boots for B. I have tall white boots for her, but am now on the hunt for those mid-calf ones. They’d look great with that dress.

Like most doll patterns, this one needs a few tweaks to bring me joy, but there are details I like about it as it is. I really like the felt for a jacket that resembles boiled wool, so I cut out another one. Inspired by a Simplicity pattern for women, I all add darts to the waist of the jacket to give it some shaping. I’m also going to modify the paperbag waist on the skirt – there’s too much bulk with it under the jacket as is. I’ll show you that and the pantsuit when they’re done. I’ll probably make the coat, too, and another hat. It really is an instant wardrobe!

Two Tea Cosies

Have you been knitting gifts for the holidays? I wasn’t doing so well with that this year. I’ve had years when I knit mitts, and years when I knit scarves, but this year, I’ve been a bit stumped and a bit crushed for time.

But a few weeks ago, I needed a new tea cozy myself and found this old Patons’ pattern in my pattern stash. I thought it would be a perfect quick knit and stashbuster:Tea cozies knit in Bernat Felting by Deborah CookeIt calls for a yarn called Beehive Craft Yarn, which I think is gone from this world. (I remember using it a long time ago for doll hair. It was a very thick acrylic yarn, at least three ply.) Instead, I used some Bernat Felting for these two, which I had in my stash. I had the idea that I’d felt it once it was done, but I like the look of it just as it is, and the size is perfect. I was a bit worried about the yarn being a single ply and not spun, but it worked out just fine. This is a quick and easy project – I can knit one in an evening, even when I’m worn out from battling Mages and fighting Slayers. (!)

The idea was that the green one would be a gift, but as you can see, I have two teapots and it wasn’t long before it was put to work right here. (You might also notice that the cables are done differently on the two cozies. The green one has cables the way they’re supposed to be. It doesn’t make a huge amount of difference, but the top is slightly easier to work when the cables twist the right way.)

It also wasn’t long before I was back in my stash, inspired for the holidays. I’ve made more of these tea cozies with Bernat Roving and with Patons Classic Wool Roving. The Bernat Roving is for people who might be inclined to chuck the tea cozy into the washing machine – it’s 80% acrylic. One ball does it in most cases.

Some of these tea cozies are heading to their destinations with a box of the recipient’s favourite tea or a box of shortbread – or both! Those being hand-delivered will arrive with fresh baking. (Yup, my mom will get one with her scones.) I’m quite happy with my army of tea cozies – they’re both useful and attractive. Besides, doesn’t everyone need a nice hot cup of tea?

Have you made any gifts this year? If so, what?